Glue for a restoration.
Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration / Glue for a restoration.
- This topic has 2 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 3 years, 7 months ago by Julio T..
I’ve got an old wooden jack plane and I would like to restore it. It has a broken abutment but the fracture is clean and I have the broken piece. It is possible to glue it since it is possible to hold it properly while the glue dries.
My doubt is wich glue should I use for glueing. I have aliphatic glue (Titebond classic) and two components epoxidic adhesive, but I don’t know wich one will give a stronger fixing. I have read that broken abutments on wooden planes are normally impossible to repair well, bit I would like to try it anyway. It is a very nice plane.
Thank you very much in advance.
I would go for the standard wood glue; Titebond or PVA equivalent. They bleed into the fibres of the wood on both sides, before drying hard. Usually forming a stronger bond than the wood itself.
If your two-part epoxy doesn’t soak in, it won’t hold.
Pearl Glue is perhaps a little stronger? Commonly used for historically-sympathetic repairs, or where clamping is difficult. It’s melted in a double-boiler, then sets rock hard as it cools. If you try to break apart an old pearl-glue joint, you’ll invariably end up damaging the surrounding wood and the joint will still remain intact.
What are abutments?
Why are they difficult to repair?
Can you use a pin, or dowel, or double-threaded screw, to make a sound mechanical joint, rather than relying on glue alone?
Thank you very much for your answer, Alan.
In wooden planes, the abutments are the parts of the body where the wedge touches to lock the blade/chip breaker assembly. In my plane, the upper part of the right one is broken, but fracture is clean and I keep the little piece of wood. As you can see in photos, I’ve tested the position of the clamp in a dry-test, and the contact is fairly good since there is not wood lost. The only thing is which glue will be a stronger joint.
I could insert a very little dowel through the cheek and the splinter when they are glued together, but I’m not sure if it will be worst, since the splinter is not very big.
The plane is a very old Joseph Marples Fore Plane (it’s 18 inches long, so I suppose I was wrong when I said it is a Jack Plane). It has a “respectable” crack on the rear part of the sole, but I think I will be able to fixing it inserting a new straight piece of beech and planing it flush to the sole. It will be a difficult restoration work, but It could be very nice if I can do it.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.