Glued-on Box Bottoms

  • Creator
    Topic
  • #6914
    ejpotter
    Participant

    Seems Paul may have addressed this somewhere, but I can’t find it.  What is the practical limit on the size of a box with a glued-0n bottom?  At what point do you have to start worrying about wood movement and find a different solution?

    Just moved to NE Ohio

Viewing 4 replies - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)
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    Replies
  • #6926
    Paul Sellers
    Participant

    @paul-sellers

    I use the maxim of no wider than 6″ max. I have never had a bottom crack, warp or distort using this as a guide. It’s also a good idea to acclimatize the wood by allowing free air to circulate around all faces of the panel to be glued, whether inside a groove or glued. A day in the environment it will live in is good.My North Wales workshop is absolutely climate controlled with humidity leveled at 48%. The temperatures are 70-degrees. I keep wood in stock generally, but sometimes I must buy in, even from unknown sources. In this case I use both moisture meters and weight measurements to know what levels my wood is at before I start a project. Board footage to weight per cubic foot/metre works well but you must know your woods to know what weights you are looking at. I also encourage experimentation and so dry out different woods to zero to see what size they reduce to and then allow atmospheric moisture to reenter and see what expansions settle at. That way, you can assess what you want for your home. Simpler still is to take a board into the home, office or workplace and leave it there until it remains unchanged for a week.
    Looking inside antique tool boxes, jewellery boxes, and a range of other such pieces, it was common to these projects too. Over 6″; always use a groove and let the panel float constrained.

    #6934
    Florian
    Participant

    @jfe1978

    Does this also apply for the back of cabinets? My present project is a hanging cabinet for glasses. On principle it is just a bigger dovetailed box (30″ wide 12″ deep and 12″ high). Now I wonder which sort of back to use. Before glueing-up I ran a rebate about 3/16 deep and 9/16 wide all around the back side.  My first thought was to nail on a thin plywood. Would this be ok or rather considered as of lesser built-quality?

    It took me two days to find a solution for the stopped grooves for the front doors and I was glad that it worked so well but then I came to the back and it turned out as one of the things “am I going to finish it tonight or tomorrow when I’m refreshed?” Well, I should have waited for the next day because what I didn’t respect in my tired head was that the rebates had to be stopped, too…. Arrrrrggghhhhh*#!?>[-]$!

    I enjoy working wood in Germany.

    #7185
    ejpotter
    Participant

    @ejpotter

    Florian,

    Maybe you’re already finished, but if not, Paul answered a similar question of mine on this thread: https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/topic/frame-and-panel-back/

    Just moved to NE Ohio

    #7398
    Florian
    Participant

    @jfe1978

    Thanks Eric! I didn’t tag the notification so I only saw it right now. I went without a back so far. It’s already hanging on the wall but I will have to take it down again to apply some more finish – and a back.

    Florian

    I enjoy working wood in Germany.

Viewing 4 replies - 1 through 4 (of 4 total)

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