Green Wood Siding
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- This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 7 years, 5 months ago by Thomas Angle.
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26 October 2016 at 2:44 am #141921
I have a pole barn garage that I am finishing off inside. I framed between the poles with 2×4 and to cover that with freshly saw lumber. My biggest concern is the shrinkage when it dries. Is this a good idea or will the shrinkage be too much? Thanks for any information in advance.
- This topic was modified 7 years, 6 months ago by Thomas Angle.
28 October 2016 at 2:11 am #141962Thomas,
I’m no expert, but don’t think you’ve provided enough info.
Questions like:
– How much shrinkage is too much?
– What type of wood?
– How long and how thick will the boards be?
are all part of the equation.Are you worried about air infiltration? Or shrinkage versus fasteners, which wins?
Many buildings (and other objects) were/ are made with green wood.
A little google research should help you determine the shrinkage you can expect, and lead you to answers to the other questions.
Good luck.
Rick G.
28 October 2016 at 2:49 am #141964I attached a picture of a section of the wall. I will frame the wall (16″ on center) between the posts. Then screw the boards horizonally (screws in every stud) from pole to pole. I will be putting some insulation behind the boards.
The spans will be no longer than 10′, the width will depend on what the lumbermill has.
I would like to keep the boards no more than 3/4″, 1/2″ would be great.
The type of wood depends on what the lumber mill has. My guess something like poplar, pine or hackberry. I am trying to do this as cheap as possible, so most likely the wood would be fairly green.
It is a garage and some small gaps will not matter, I am going for a rustic timber frame look anyways. I am just worried about the boards drying and warping or pulling away from the wall. If there are any other concerns that I should be worried about, I would like to hear them.
I should have been more informative, but I was brain dead that night. Sorry for any confusion.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.30 October 2016 at 4:03 am #142023I think I said this before: I’m no expert. Also, you’ll have to do your own research on the shrinkage value of the wood you purchase (possibly in the wood database – which can be googled).
Thickness counts for drying but not width so much. And your thickness (or should I say thinness) should help minimize issues.
I’d use Tyvek inder the siding as your infiltration barrier so as not to worry about small gaps in the siding.
Also, I’d go with nails over screws. Nails can bend to accomdate movement without damage. Screws are less mailable and therefore more likely to cause damage. I’d just go with a cement coated sinker if you’re worried about pullout. But more likely I’d go with galvanized (rust protection) and assume that any significant shrinkage may lead to re-nailing some or all as necessary.
It’s probably a good idea to assume the boards will cup, and accordingly watch the grain to keep the cup on the inside where it should be less noticeable.
That’s my two-cents. Get more input prior to making decisions.
Best of luck,
Rick G
Since it looks like you have the tools and maybe the time, you could do a floating tongue and groove, normal tongue and groove or even ship-lap joints then shrinkage atleast on most 6 and 9 inch boards should be a minor issue and stay pretty wind tight. Cupping is going to be harder to predict.
7 November 2016 at 5:03 pm #142257I did put up the boards. I was not so concerned about the air tightness since I put insulation behind them as much as the cupping. Thanks for all the advice.
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