Help Sharpening!!
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4 February 2014 at 7:24 pm #27258
Move the frog forward on both planes. I’ll bet that your blade is resting on the rear edge of the mouth opening, like David suggests. If this Is happening then the effect will mimic an incorrect blade angle. You also need to address the fit of the cap iron/chip breaker. The very front edge should be making contact with the back if the blade. This will stop shavings from becoming wedged under it.
Again, looks like the frog placement is your main issue.No problem, as Greg stated, it looks like two issues, but what I don’t understand is how this planed in the first place, with the frog moved back so far it puts the blade assembly at a wonky angle, you need to move it up closer to the throat opening of the planes sole as in the photo I attached. To start with set the frog like the photo I attached, the put the blade assembly (blade and chip breaker) in and put the cap iron on. When it’s assembled and the blade just emerging from the throat, set the frog so there is 1/16 of a inch from the blade to the front of the sole. Take some shavings, if the plane is still not shavings then other issues are at play.
Oh darn it, the photo is going to be confusing, the blade and throat opening are at the left, disregard the right side as this is my veritas 4 which has a different frog type thing.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.4 February 2014 at 9:15 pm #27268Now we see picture most of us have picked up what needs to be done.
1. move frog forward and stop just before slope of the mouth starts
2. flatten the edge of cap iron that meets on the back of blade/iron so no gaps appear on front
3. angle does look a little steep to me. I would re-do bevel so nearer 25˚ to 30˚ if you do not have a honing guide. Cut a block of wood at 25˚place on your sharpening medium put iron on angled and use as a guide if any thing will help train you for angle as you work the iron check with a square apply pressure to longest side to even out to keep square.4 February 2014 at 11:14 pm #27273For Texster: A explanation of the 1:60 rule for finding an angle without a protractor. This is an approximation. At larger angles, the error can be a couple of degrees. Sorry for the crude nature of the diagram. Hope this helps.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.5 February 2014 at 2:29 am #27278To all:
Everyone here has helped me fix my issues. On my Sargent the frog was to for back. I repositioned and it cuts better than it ever has. Thanks.
I am in the process of re-honing my Groz. The blade is thicker and it is taking me a while.
THANKS EVERYONE!!!! SO much. I have attached two photos of my bench tops I am working on again thanks to everyone here.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Glad you got the Sargent working for you. You may never get the Groz working for anything other than rough work. A lot of people that are pretty good at fettling planes say they can be done but they are just not worth the effort. If you’re having problems with the Groz it might not be you and it might be better not to get frustrated by it.
6 February 2014 at 9:30 pm #27370One last thing I noticed on the Groz 1 and the sargeant 2 pictures the chip breaker doesn’t seem to be square to the blade edge.This may be that the final tweak of tightening the cap screw is causing cap iron to follow the rotation of the cap screw thread, and therefore be skewed at the cutting edge.If you hold the blade on its side on a flat surface as you tighten down the cap iron, you’ll know whether that is your problem, or that the cap iron itself isn’t square.
6 February 2014 at 9:33 pm #27371At Johnny
At what angle do I hone the chip breabreaker to make it sit flat on my blade?
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