How would you repair this bad blow out of wood during panel glue up?
- This topic has 18 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 1 year, 3 months ago by
.
-
Posts
-
Dear All,
I am making the back panel for a piece out of cherry and plywood. It has been fighting me the whole way. Even though the long stile had a bow in it after cutting, I got it to close up during the dry assembly. During the actual glue up, I had an issue in which I couldn’t get the bottom rail to full seat and used more pressuing and mallet blows. I finally realized that the issue was the panel not seating in the groove. I was too forceful and should have taken a step back (my fault). As such, I now have some significant blow up in the lower section.
How would you repair this and what glue would you use?
I’m torn between breaking off cleanly the parts, removing some material so it will glue relatively flat then using a hand plane and wood filler/wax.
The other approach is use a mixture of chisels and router plane to get a flat surface and patching in a flat straight piece of wood.
My biggest lesson learned was when something feels wrong during glue up to stop for a minute and look to see if there is a hang up I’m not seeing.
I could remake the whole back panel but I don’t really want to as it will be used in the bathroom and hold towels and really won’t be seen. Many t hanks for your input.
Can you clamp the breaks closed? From the photos it looks like it could be possible.
If you can I would glue them up and make the sections good with filler or sawdust+glue mix.
I think it’s always better to glue the splits back together / in if you can, as other repairs will be more noticeable.
Good luck
Darren.
Thanks. With hand pressure, I can get it to close up a fair bit. Not perfect. I will likely try gluing up the splits and then use a had plane to get things smooth. From there, will determine if wood filler or wax is needed to fill any gaps.
Put some normal wood glue in there and clamp it up as hard as you can.
Perhaps the front vise can be part of the clamping, possibly with the jaws protected by grease proof paper?
Would epoxy penetrate more thoroughly?
Sven-Olof Jansson
London, UK; Boston, MAThanks all. I have felt sick to my stomach all day today for doing this. The dry fit went together so well. The glue up had a me a bit stressed. I SHOULD have paused for a second when I needed much more pressure to try and close the joint. I would have figured it out and likely have avoided the whole thing. I am mostly angry at myself. Tomorrow I will give it a try to fix it the simplest way you’ve both mentioned. If all goes well, within 48 hours, this mistake will be in the past and it will be fixed.
You can put glue in the cracks and blow the glue more deeply in with an air gun or compressed air can. Repeat a few times.
Would like to say thanks Joe.
“Issue management” is very educational. Not only have my knowledge been increased; but the design of an upcoming six feet wide side board has taken a leap forward, thanks to your photo of the back panel.
The included photo shows a repair of a tenon cut, which taught me:
1. Warming up cyanoacrylate glue facilitates its penetration into a gap.
2. Warm cyanoacrylate glue loses its rapid curing property.
3. The better half’s Babyliss must never ever again be brought into the workshop. That was made utterly clear.
Sven-Olof Jansson
London, UK; Boston, MADefinitely get some glue down in there, any of the methods above, or also put glue on both sides of some paper, insert it to the cracks, close gently, pull the paper out to spread the glue. If the paper breaks, don’t worry too much. I would also make a caul with some packing tape over it to get the pressure as even as possible.
Colin, Czech Rep.
Thanks All for the feedback. I prepared cauls to go both directions so that that break would close properly. Used lots of packing tape and the cauls. For the wood surface where glue shouldn’t end up, I put down some painters tape. Did a dry clamp up first. I used warm liquid hide glue and held the piece in a variety of directions to get glue everywhere it should go. It’s in the clamps and I will let it sit overnight. We shall see how it goes. I’ve also attached a photo of the carcass of this Shaker chimney cupboard. I’m close to finished. I’m following a design from Fine Woodworking. It appears quite popular as I’ve seen a few others make it on the monthly photos that get posted I will follow up after I remove it form the clamps and clean it up with my hand plane and wood filler.
I’ve decided to keep this piece rather than remake it mostly for two reasons: it’s for my household, it’s on the inside and likely won’t be seen. If I had done something similar on the front, I would have remade it. I would have preferred to not have made this mistake but I am certainly learning a lot. Unlikely I will do this again or get over forceful during glue up with clamps. If something is going together like the dry run, there is likely a reason other than swelling by the glue on the joints.
-
This reply was modified 1 year, 5 months ago by
.
-
This reply was modified 1 year, 5 months ago by
-
This reply was modified 1 year, 5 months ago by
I have used super glue for suck things. It is thin and flows in the openings quite well……….then waxed paper from the kitchen and a batten to keep it flat. Let it dry thoroughly and clean it up with a card scraper .
Dear All,
Just wanted to close the loop on this. Remove the clamps and tape and the surface looked significan’tly better and more flat. Used my hand plane for a few swipes and cleaned it up. It is much better. Not as good as if I hadn’t broken it. Given the location (lower cabinet in the back) and that there will be towels in there and that it is for my family, it really won’t be seen. Even if it is, I have a story of how not being sensitive when working (or assembling) can cause problems that can otherwise be avoided. Thank you for the suggestions as they helped.
Sincerely,
Joe
Looks very tidy with an interesting figure, much like spalted wood.
Thanks for sharing.
Sven-Olof Jansson
London, UK; Boston, MADear All,
I finished the piece. After clear shellac as added to the inside, I initially couldn’t find where the repair work was. Once I recalled it’s location, I could see it, but it looks more like grain. No one will notice it. Thought you might want to see it finished and see the final outcome. Very happy with it. More importantly, my wife is very happy with it.
Sincerely,
JoeVery well repaired. The pride of a nice piece AND the pride of an unnoticeable repair.
Colin, Czech Rep.
-
This reply was modified 1 year, 5 months ago by
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
