I just sharpened a saw for the first time
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I just sharpened a saw for the first time (and it works) and for that I owe a huge debt of gratitude to Mr Paul Sellers. If I hadn’t accidetally come across his blogs in December I probably wouldn’t ever have done it.
Since then I’ve replaced numerous old techniques with new ones from Paul’s videos, blog and book. The block of beeswax has been replaced with the oil rag in a can. It just works better.
I always used to sharpen by hand, but never felt the results were as good as off the honing guide. I still use oilstones, but adopting Paul’s technique means that I get the burr quickly (I used to have a real hard time even getting a burr before) and the addition of the strop on a block really finishes things off. I can now say my hand sharpening results equal if not exceed the results using the guide and the guide now only gets used for initial bevel angles.
The addition of winding sticks to my arsenal means I’m truing boards in next to no time. I used to put the board upside down on the bench and see how it rocked. Using the winding sticks is much better.
The dovetail marking template and numerous layout options presented are not only speeding things up, the joints are now more consistent too. How can you beat that!
My Clifton planes now sit idle and are replaced by a #3, #4 and #5 Stanley. Razor sharp and tuned they behave great. Why did I think that I needed super thick blades before.
I could go on, but back to the saw. Sharpening it is monumental to me, even though it was actually fairly quick and not really difficult. That’s why I really have to say an incredibly big thank you to Paul Sellers for sharing such a wealth of experience in such a concise, no nonsense and easy to apply way. Simply put, Paul’s teachings have been the best thing that’s ever happened for my woodworking.
Many thanks Paul!
Paul27 March 2017 at 11:06 pm #310612Well done mate – there is such a sense of satisfaction when you sharpen a saw or plane blade and see the difference it makes. I agree totally with your sentiments about Paul’s teaching – he’s a natural.
Hi Wolfhound,
Don’t get me wrong. I love the Clifton planes. I have a 4, 5, 6 and 7. I went through a plane buying phase around 9 or 10 years ago. I also have a Lie Nielsen 5 1/2 which I’m really not into as I find it way too heavy.
I wouldn’t say ‘replaced’ either, rather that I’m finding the Stanley’s to be equal at getting the job done. I’m sure that I will alternate using both, but for now the Stanley’s are on the bench, working just fine and being used, whereas the Cliftons have been in a closet for the last few months. Recent projects include Walnut, Sapele Mahogany, Cherry, Hickory and Pine and I’ve not really had any issues getting good results. Also the recent projects have been small so, take that for what it’s worth.
There are a couple of things that I do prefer about the Stanley planes though.
The first is that they are quite a bit lighter and easier to move around. My go to plane currently is the Stanley #3. I just love it.
Second is I find the thinner blade quicker to sharpen. Although I’m probably in all fairness sharpening more often.
Then there’s one thing that I really like in the Cliftons. The 2 piece cap iron allows you to sharpen without removing the whole cap iron and losing the setting. I find that a neat improvement.
Over the weekend I ripped some cherry and I have one piece that has some stubborn grain that tears out in any direction with the Stanleys. I attacked it with a #80 scraper to get it smooth, but I may pull the clifton #4 out of storage to see how that handles it, just out of interest. When I do I’ll post the results.
Hope that helps. FYI: I should probably stick the LN 5 1/2 on eBay since that really does not see any use at all.
Regards,
PaulI would suggest a sharp blade, suitable set for the cut and lubrication of the sole to help the plane glide over the surface will offset the advantages that the momentum gained by a heavy plane may provide. Pushing a heavy plane around for any period can get quite tiring too.
Here’s an interesting article on the virtues (lighter and less friction) of wooden planes. https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/04/wooden-hand-planes/. I don’t own any and haven’t used them, so I can’t speak from experience.
Regards,
PaulHi Ian,
I took the Clifton #4 out, sharpened up, and put it to work on that piece of curly cherry that was tearing out with the Stanley #4. No real difference in the finish quality. It still needed the #80 scraper and a card scraper to remove the tear out. The Clifton is noticeably more work to handle though due to its weight.
If I’d have known 10 years ago what I know now I’d probably have gone with old Stanley bench planes off the bat, but I probably would also have a nagging ‘I should try out some of those fancy planes’ feeling š
If you are in the process of looking for a couple of bench planes I’d go the bay route and pick up some ‘relatively’ inexpensive Stanleys or equivalent and tune them up :). If you are in the US (I’m guessing UK) this guy charges probably a little more, but is honest about the quality of the tools and it’s unlikely to be a dud. http://www.thebestthings.com/stanley.htm. Quite possibly he ships outside the US?
Anyway, hope that helps.
Regards,
PaulHello Paul,
Thanks again for your advice.
Yes, I have bought an inexpensive Stanley nĀ°4 on ebay and have got it in what seems to be quite good shape. The cutting edge of the iron was not square and had a dent in it. I spent some time with it on a diamond stone and got it clean, square and sharp. Of course I have never even touched a hand plane before and I have nothing else to compare it with, so it may be crap š But anyhow I have getting some full width, quite fine shavings with it.
I will be attending a week long workshop at the Peter Sefton school at the end of the month so hopefully I will be able to try out some other planes there. I think he uses Clifton and Woodriver. Why do those Cliftons have look so nice !!!
BTW I am an expat living in Belgium but in the UK quite often.
Thanks again,
Cheers,
Ian -
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