26 September 2015 at 5:08 am #130836
Thanks to Frank Joseph for guidance, I made my first marking gauge. It was much easier than I thought – took maybe an hour. It could have been faster, but I took my time.
I used some scrap wood I had laying around. Sapele for the head, cherry for the beam, and oak for the wedge. It works just like any other one I have. There is something nice about making your own tools.
I will be making another, I had some blow out in the mortice hole, and want to fix it. I’m going to pick up some brass blanks and inlay them in as well.
Seattle, WA26 September 2015 at 5:09 am #130838
I will probably end up shaping the head. Right now I’m just nervous I will mess it up, and have to start over.
Seattle, WA26 September 2015 at 3:10 pm #130842Frank JosephParticipant
Well I am very glad the rough samples I sent did there job, Yours looks very good.
In South Jersey the good part of New Jersey, USA.28 September 2015 at 9:15 pm #130906trooper82Participant
Nice!…question…is the lock slide held in place? meaning is there a knob on the other side we can’t see?29 September 2015 at 4:49 pm #130923
No, there is just a small wedge on the side facing the tool well. If you enlarge the picture, you can see part of it poking out.
Seattle, WA2 October 2015 at 3:35 pm #130996
Nice one, I need a marking gauge can you share the info on how to make it?2 October 2015 at 3:49 pm #130997
I will put something together with pictures
Seattle, WA2 October 2015 at 4:38 pm #130998
Thanks a million2 October 2015 at 4:38 pm #130999
I am no expert, and all credit has to go to Frank Joseph to showed me, and gave me the confidence.
I didn’t actually use any measurements to make it. I just used whatever scraps I had and the chisels to match. The beam is 10″ long – quite longer than my others, but I like it that way. I can always cut it down later.
The head is 3×2 with a mortise to match the beam. Once the beam was a tight fit. I gradually took a thin shaving off every side (1 shaving at a time) until it would slip in and out without binding or sticking. Be careful here, you don’t want too much play in it.
When that was done, I just took a 3/8″ chisel and gradually paired down the place for the wedge.
Cut the wedge, gave it all a coat of tung oil, and called it a day. I will be shaping the head eventually. When the wedge is in the “loose” position, you want it to be flush with the mortise hole. Meaning the beam can slide freely.
The pin is just a nail. I cut off the head, filing a super sharp point, drilled a hold in the beam, and tapped it through.
2 October 2015 at 5:05 pm #131003
- This reply was modified 6 years, 10 months ago by Joe Kaiser.
That’s fantastic so you have a double ended wedge that you can press from either direction one way tight the other loose? Definatly going to make one of those!2 October 2015 at 5:24 pm #131004
Yeah, Frank sent me a few of those and it works great. I like being able to push from the bottom and then when I need to loose it, I turn it upside down on the edge of the bench and give it a quick tap.
Seattle, WA2 October 2015 at 5:56 pm #131006
Very good so you push the wedge away from the pin to tighten on yours?2 October 2015 at 7:27 pm #131008
no, you push towards the pin
Seattle, WA2 October 2015 at 8:13 pm #131009OrestesParticipant
Very good job!!!
By the way, the planes in the background look really good as well.
What are the numbers ?3 October 2015 at 12:41 am #131011Frank JosephParticipant
Hi Joe they came out very good. Glad you like this type. I find them very easy to adjust with one hand. The key to adjusting is to set it under size tighten the wedge a bit and the tap it on somthing till you are on mark.
In South Jersey the good part of New Jersey, USA.
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