- This topic has 13 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 2 months ago by Anonymous.
Anonymous29 November 2012 at 6:43 am #3989
I have always loved the look a simple bead can give to a project, and before joining here, I would have been ordering a beading bit for the router, or looking for a beading plane.
After seeing Paul make the bead on the clock case, I though wow I will have to try that. Well no bit of scrap is safe anymore I’m putting beads on it all, HaHa so simple but so effective, it’s amazing. It probably means nothing to you guys that have been working wood for years, but for us beginners, just learning something new is a great joy.
Ken 😉Anonymous29 November 2012 at 8:03 am #3991
I sincerely think it’s great witnessing such enjoyment being garnered by you and others as you enhance your skills my friend. It’s much the reason I’ll never become disenchanted with woodworking and why I always offer encouragement whenever I can. 🙂Anonymous29 November 2012 at 9:51 am #4000
Thanks guys, juryaan I use it after the N05 for levelling and straitening the surface. I then set the blade for a finer cut, and do what I call Intermediate smoothing.Anonymous29 November 2012 at 10:51 am #4003
I totally miss read the title initially and my Geordie translation had me thinking you were making a bed as your next project. 🙂Anonymous29 November 2012 at 10:58 am #4004
HaHa 🙂 I like it buddyAnonymous29 November 2012 at 11:38 am #4005
😉 😀 Funny thing is it’s true lol 😀
My fleaBay no.50 combination router arrived this morning. Looks good. Been making lots of beads so far, unfortunately I’m not yet at the point of skills development where I’m able to keep the bead attached to the wood it’s cut from ;o) Is it still called a bead when it’s on the floor with the rest of the shavings?
Yorkshireman currently living in Hampshire
I’m with you Jon, my Stanley 45 came in the mail a few days ago. Grooves are getting better (especially after installing a deep fence), beads are still a little rough. I’ve been practicing on scrap though, and not much of that is the clear straight grain I would pick for intentional molding with this plane. Fun shavings to make though!
Washington State, USA
My own humble blog:
Hi charles. The deep fence is definite the way to go. Lots more control. Sharpened the cutter, and having reviewd a couple of vids on youtube, managing to cut some decent grooves and shoulders. Know what you mean about using scrap though, chipped the corner off the 3/16th cutter on a knot and had to resquare and sharp the edge. You live and learn i guess!
Yorkshireman currently living in HampshireAnonymous29 November 2012 at 8:20 pm #4041
Nice knowing your #50 arrived safely and great seeing loads of practise going on Jon. 🙂
Here’s a couple of handy tips
Sharpening with a single bevel at 35 deg tends to be the (Manufacturer’s) recommended angle, plus provides a more resilient edge for when you hit stubborn timber. 😉
Select stock carefully for grain orientation and knots. Knot free, straight grained timber tends to produce the best results.Anonymous29 November 2012 at 10:07 pm #4053
No probs Jon 😉
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