mitre joint

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  • #4935
    Ed Stanyer

    Does anyone out there have a foolproof method to glue & clamp a mitre joint? Not delicate picture frame mouldings but heavy section, long, dense timber such as air dried English oak.  I could and will probably use a haunched stub tenon to hide the end grain but I’m interested if there is a technique for accurate glueing up of non stressed mitre joints. Forget biscuits, dominoes, pocket hole screws or conti blocks, oh and mitre bond. Just glue and pressure. in this instance it’s a rebated skirt for a tiled hearth. I can glue up successfully on site with two visits but is it possible to glue up in the workshop and make just one trip? I was hoping someone may have a workbench jig that might make the process simpler.




    Hi Ed,

    Mitre clamps. 😉

    Another option is a simple set-up using f or g cramps partnered with temporary clamping blocks fitted by taping (Double sided tape works well) or gluing to the external corners to form a clamping mechanism while the joints cure overnight.

    Internal joints are your best friend if avoiding mechanical fixings, but working with heavy duty materials.  Splines or tongues can be used to reinforce mitres and quickly lock them rigidly square.  Both are fairly standard applications and you’ve another option if you use a mitred lap joint (Can be glued and crossed stitched using brads).  All three options leave you without exposed end grain. 😉

    I’d only tend to make a clamping jig (Basically an internal pattern) if making a few hearth frames, although hearth frames can be made and fitted on site in one visit.

    Ed Stanyer

    Thanks Gary,

    Future projects using splines and feathers would be very helpful.

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