Nail punch setting saw teeth
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- This topic has 5 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 1 month ago by STEVE MASSIE.
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Hi everyone
Found an old saw in the shed and I want to have a go at recutting its teeth. They arent too bad but its a good piece to practice on.
I don’t have a saw set and I’d like to learn how to do it with a nail punch. Unfortunately I can’t find too much information on this.
Are there any good reference sources for this?
Thanks
Here is a good article http://www.getwoodworking.com/news/article/sharpening-hand-saws/783
Setting the teeth
Setting the teeth is also an uncomplicated aspect of saw sharpening. We use a device called a saw set, but small-toothed saws are often too small for sawsets in which case we use a small nail punch. Most dedicated saw sets don’t go down to the range we need for fine saws, yet the saws must have the correct amount of set, otherwise they bind in the cut and make the saw difficult to use or they waggle in the cut and you lose precision.
flattening teeth setting teeth checking alignment
Flattening teeth and resetting and checking the saw for alighment.
lapping the blade
Finally, place the saw on fine
sharpening plates and rub the
saw back and forth for a few
rubs. This will both polish and
fine-tune the outside cutting
corners of the teeth
For nail-punch setting I lay the saw on its side with the teeth on a thin batten of wood so that the saw is raised up above the workbench. I also lay a batten under the back stiffening bar, to suspend the saw up on the bench.This saw had no set at all, and so I didn’t have to follow the direction of the existing set. Otherwise, I would simply drive the teeth according to the existing pattern. If the existing set seems irregular, tap the sides of the teeth with a hammer on a steel surface or an anvil to remove the set.
setting tool
alignment
1. Using a setting tool
2. Keeping a file at right
angles for a ripsaw set.
Otherwise, place the point of the nail punch on the tooth and begin tapping every alternate tooth with a single tap. I use a 10oz Warrington. When you get to the end, flip the saw over and start again, but this time begin setting the opposite teeth to the ones you just did.
With the setting completed, try the saw. It may feel coarse, if so, then it’s likely that you have too much set. Take the saw back to the anvil or metal vise jaw and tap the sides of the teeth evenly, first from one side of the saw, and then the other.Try the saw again and compare the cut. This tapping does not remove all of the set because the steel has memory. Tapping the steal compresses the steel between the hammer and the face of the anvil, but the teeth spring back after the hammer blows, but to a more uniform level.
1 April 2015 at 9:44 am #126145I think the saw set is the best way to go. You should be able to get one on Ebay for under $20. They are easy to use and will give consistent results.
Yup I got a very good condition Eclipse 77 for £9.50, not a spot of discolouration even on it as far as I can tell. I’ll do that refining the hammer thing when it arrives. No bench grinder so I’ll have to rely on my £2 diamond needle files. They’re surprisingly good actually for such a low price.
1 April 2015 at 4:42 pm #126153The Eclipse 77 is a very good set and the price was very reasonable, also the stanley 42X is another great one ( notice I mentioned 42 X not the other Stanley’s. ) I have both the Eclipse and 42X which in my opinion are the best.
Steve
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