Need some advice about a plane blade
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I’m having issues with a lovely Hock blade. I bought this for a No 6 plane I restored at least a year ago. It’s no longer possible to get an even projection of the blade. It will either cut more on one side or a corner (the right one) sticks out. This is because I’ve got sort of 3 curves. Both the corners are curved as it should be and there is an extra curve at the left side (a high spot). I need to re straighten the edge and make it square to the side. What are my options? I have already tried a few things, but I would like to know what your methods are. The plane is useless at the moment and that drives me mad.
Thank you
I’ve never done anything like this but first thing that comes to mind is to take a combination square and using the side of the blade scribe a thin line across the edge with a sharpie. Then use a metal file to reset the bevel to the line.
-Canada
Maybe use a honing guide to square the edge and then back to your normal handsharpening.
When i think my planeblades or chissels are out of square i use this method and it works great.
Hope this helps Michael
Lopik - Netherlands
I use a Veritas Mark II honing guide to get all my screwed up blades back to square. It works really well and is easy to use. My friends give me their blades and chisels to get them squared back up as well. It’s kind of a good “safety” to have when you sharpen by hand, so you don’t worry as much if you screw it up. You wouldn’t believe how messed up some of the plane blades that I’ve bot on eBay are.
I’ve done this several times as Dave suggested. Scribe a line using a square and a fine tipped sharpie and grind or file down to the line.
Just moved to NE Ohio
I’d be happy to square it up for you Michael, but I think the postage from the Netherlands to Texas would probably cost more than the blade did. My Hock was around $35 as I recall. Offer stands tho.
Thanks Jeff. I have a rocket in my garden so I see you in 5 minutes 🙂
I also have the Veritas mkII but I managed to screw the blade up with this, using the cambered roller. It’s the only blade I messed up. I tried to regrind it but that didn’t work out. I will try some of the tips I got from you. Don’t you hate it when you want to proceed building instead of fixing stuff 🙁
I think that honing guides are a good way to get back to square too. That’s what the students do at the school too. It saves juggling with angles and squares until you get used to it. I find I correct myself periodically by pressing on the light side and this of course corrects bad habits forming during freehand sharpening too.
Today I took out my bench grinder, set the tool rest at 90 degrees to the stone and tried to straighten the iron as good as I could get it. Of course this created a significant flat spot, so I spent almost an hour regrinding the bevel. Combination of the tough A2 alloy and a not so good grind stone. After that, back to the normal sharpening sequence on my diamonds and strop. I think it’s way better now, but of course solving one problem leads to another 🙂 The plane still did not perform like it should, so I took my square and checked the sole. Convex in its width. This means, as far as I can tell, that the plane is rocking/rocks from left to right and that causes uneven shavings and tracks on the surface. Please correct me if I’m wrong.
I need to flatten the sole again, but it’s a number 6. No fun in that.
ps. I have another blade that came with the plane, but this one needs work too. I might try the honing guide method this time.
Thats no fun Michael,flattening the sole of a no 6.
I wouldn’t take to course sandpaper and mark the sole with a sharpie ,check the sole every few strokes to look where you are taking of material so you don’t skew the sole.this could happen easily now because your sole is convex.
good luck.
Lopik - Netherlands
Hey Michael. Don’t forget to put the blade in and secure the cap iron at its usual tension. Paul (I think) mentioned something about it slightly bowing the plane bed, so thats the state you need to flatten it in.
I won’t forget Jeff, thanks. I already have some experience with this. I had to flatten 3 new modern Stanley planes because they were in such a bad shape. The hardest part is indeed what Juryaan says. I think light pressure and constant checking are the keywords, otherwise the belly just remains.
Ok this plane is bad. I am going to put this one aside, continue building the workbench and maybe I will look into it again.
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