Plane Iron Back Bevel
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Ooh, controversial topic! Some people swear by them, others have no time for them.
When I was starting out and my sharpening skills were less proficient than they are now, I found back bevels were useful to help get a keener edge. Now that I am comfortable sharpening my blades to a really sharp edge, I have dispensed with the back bevels. Performance-wise I cannot notice a difference.
27 July 2013 at 10:00 am #15354Nice video Ken, Back bevel works for him, dare say he might have got same result without, I do like the Clifton plane he was using do you know what model it was it looks bigger than a No4 perhaps a No 41/2
Back bevels are used with bevel down planes. Their purpose is to increase the effective cutting angle (higher for grain changing woods).
Suppose than an iron is bedded at 45*. Put a 10* backbevel on ‘top’ and you have a cutting angle of 55*. or as in the video a 25* gives a 70* cutting angel.
Has nothing to do with getting a sharper edge π
[quote quote=15354]Nice video Ken, Back bevel works for him, dare say he might have got same result without, I do like the Clifton plane he was using do you know what model it was it looks bigger than a No4 perhaps a No 41/2 [/quote]
David as Matthew said he is using a 41/2 yeah nice plane π
As for getting the same results without the back bevel, no that wont happen, I watched a demo of this by David Charlesworth. Without the back bevel tear out was major, with the back bevel, as per video.
27 July 2013 at 3:06 pm #15360Ken, with a back bevel the edge might get sharper because you know you are polishing the leading edge at the back. Then again, with a well maintained back and a proper technique this should not make a difference.
I used to use back bevels (ruler trick) because I followed David’s method. I stopped doing this and sometimes I have a hard time removing the burr completely. I probably need some more practising.
27 July 2013 at 6:37 pm #15386In the end trying these techniques out your self is the answer.
Find out what suits the timber at hand.
All you need is some spare irons.The only trouble is that diamond plate superfine grit 1200 where as scary sharpening 0.03 Micron = to around 30,000 + grit.So you may have to venture into different sharpening methods like Scary or water stones.
I normally just use standard 25 deg bevel with 30 deg micro bevel flat back if tear out use scraper. It’s the way I was taught 30 years ago so I’m a bit of a stick in the mud.
Paul has his followers for his method and has good reasons for his method.
[quote quote=15365]Michael, the ruler trick, and the back bevel are completely different buddy.;)[/quote]
Ken how do they differ?
Personally, I only use them on two of my older plane blades as I prefer changing the cutting angle through using steeper frogs. I have 45, 50 and 55 degree frogs.
Well, looks like i may have inadvertently put my foot in it! All i can say is my Stanley #5 was causing me all kinds of headaches until i ground out the back bevel. Now it cuts fantastic. Could it also have something to do with the wood i was planeing at the time?
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