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Plane Restoration

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Previous Back to: Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration7 Replies

Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration / Plane Restoration

  • This topic has 7 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 6 months ago by Ed Williams.
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  • jgust747
    19 February 2013 at 3:52 pm #8173

    Found a good site for plane restorations.

    http://timetestedtools.wordpress.com/bench-plane-restore-the-dw-way/

    Dallas, Texas

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    David Gill
    20 February 2013 at 10:03 am #8207

    Johan

    That is an interesting site , thanks for sharing

     

    Wigan, Lancs. England :

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    Ken
    20 February 2013 at 11:48 am #8213

    Thanks Johan, some good info on that site.

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    jgust747
    20 February 2013 at 5:45 pm #8240

    Got my rusty #4C in from Ebay in the mail the other day. just sanded off the the worst rust spots and sharpened the iron. It cuts very nice but the widest shaving I can get while just taking a fine shaving is about 1″.

    Do you think it could be too much camber (rounding) of the iron?

    Going to flatten the sole and see if that make a differences.

    Dallas, Texas

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    Rob Young
    20 February 2013 at 6:11 pm #8242
    jgust747 wrote:

    Got my rusty #4C in from Ebay in the mail the other day. just sanded off the the worst rust spots and sharpened the iron. It cuts very nice but the widest shaving I can get while just taking a fine shaving is about 1″.

    Do you think it could be too much camber (rounding) of the iron?

    Going to flatten the sole and see if that make a differences.

    If the sole is bellied side-to-side, it could affect both the shaving width AND where the shaving is taken (sometimes to the left, or the right or centered as you take passes even though you aren’t adjusting the blade). If the plane can rock side to side, the sole is bellied. That can be some work to fix. A slightly hollowed sole is easier to deal with and in some cases can be ignored so long as the hollow is well back from the mouth and doesn’t extend to the edges of the sole.

    Sight the blade using a small square to estimate how much camber is present. A 1″ wide shaving isn’t the end of the world, consider reducing the camber gradually through sharpening instead of re-grinding. May only take a few sharpenings to fix anyway.

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    jgust747
    20 February 2013 at 6:48 pm #8248

    Thank you Rob,

    The sole is flat side to side, it’s just the front and the back that is a little higher then the rest of the sole. The shavings are from the the middle of the iron so the iron should be level with the sole. I will wait and see if it improves after a couple of resharpening’s.

    Johan

     

    Dallas, Texas

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    Rob Young
    20 February 2013 at 7:30 pm #8252
    jgust747 wrote:

    Thank you Rob,

    The sole is flat side to side, it’s just the front and the back that is a little higher then the rest of the sole. The shavings are from the the middle of the iron so the iron should be level with the sole. I will wait and see if it improves after a couple of resharpening’s.

    Johan

    It sounds as if you are describing a concave sole, toe to heel. Is that correct? This isn’t terribly difficult to “fix” and since you would have at least two points of contact to start your flattening (sandpaper on glass or whatever) it should be quick and relatively painless.

    Not sure how often it is mentioned, but for me, when flattening a sole “freehand” against a reference plate, I like to turn the plane around toe-to-heel every so often. Say 10 strokes with the toe forward, then 10 with the toe pointing to me. The theory is that I will cancel out any bias introduced by my body mechanics which could tend to bring the sole out of square to the sides. It is just the way I’ve been doing it, I can’t say if it really makes a difference but it gives me something to do during a boring part of a restoration.

    Also, remember to do your flattening with the frog, blade, chip breaker & lever cap in place and tensioned for use. Just retract the blade. On smaller body planes, you can certainly deflect the casting when cinching down the blade. May as well compensate a bit during the flattening procedure.

    Good luck and enjoy your new “toy”.

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    Ed Williams
    16 July 2013 at 8:24 am #14850

    I have inherited some stanley planes and found this link useful for the complete novice to explain the various parts and their initial set up
    http://www.tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/stanley/stan-bpl/planefacts.pdf
    now to start restoring them

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