Planing end grain on Australian Hardwood (Victorian Ash)
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Tagged: Australian Hardwood, Endgrain, Planing
- This topic has 5 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 10 months ago by
Laci Nagy.
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Hi Folks,
I’ve been working with a local hardwood (Victorian Ash or Tasmanian Oak) which is planing beautifully on the faces and edges using an old Stanley No4. However, whenever I try planing the end grain, the plane just skips over it with the fine settings that worked so well on the face and edges. If I coarsen the blade setting, by the time it actually does stop skipping over the wood, it digs in terribly because the blade is extended so far, particularly if the growth rings are pronounced.
I’ve taken to trying to pare the end grain with a chisel to try and get anything remotely clean. While that works and gives me a nice smooth cut (at least for small sections), it has its own variations and set of problems that make me want to get the planing mastered.
I’d love to be able to get a nice clear planed end like Paul demonstrates so often, but I’m wondering if this type of timber is not suited for a standard plane (there must be a reason besides marketing for low angle block planes) or if I just don’t have the blade sharpened correctly for this type of wood. I’m using a Veritas honing guide at 30deg as I still botch the sharpening if I do it free hand.
I’m sure that there are other timbers out there that are as hard or harder than this one that people have successfully worked, so if anyone has any suggestions for dealing with this type of timber, I’d appreciate it.
Regards,
Laci
17 May 2018 at 9:49 am #547876Laci
I am in Australia too and have worked on tassie oak and knpw the end grain is challenging as it splinters easily but a sharp plane with a nice closed mouth does still do a good job so my suggestions would be.
If you dont currently strop after sharpening consider doing that
Move ypur frog further forward on your plan to close the mouth more
skew your plan slightly
plane as shallowly as you can.
Let me know if it helps
Best regards
PhilG’day Phil,
Thanks for the info. I do strop the blade using some honing compound and tried to skew the plane or use the circular motion that Paul suggests.
I did move the frog forward when I initially set up the plane, but I’ll have another look at it as I may not have moved it forward far enough for the end grain.
I’ll also give it a go straight after sharpening the blade. I’ve just realised after reading your advice that I typically try to plane the ends after having worked on the faces and edges first, so maybe I need to do the ends first with a fresh edge.
Regards,
Laci
Phil,
I just wanted to let you know that your suggestions worked a treat. Didn’t have to move the frog much and if I planed the end grain straight after sharpening instead after I did the edges and faces I got a nice smooth cut. I just need to practice keeping it square!
Thanks again,
Laci
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