Planing over Knots
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Yesterday I had a really bad time planing knotty wood. Any advice?
I’ve heard the following:
– Make sure your plane is sharp
Of course– When approaching the knot, angle the plane slightly so it ‘slices’ the knot more than planing it.
This seems to help quite a bit – but I can still get tear-out just beyond the knot being planed (this is a major issue for me)– Use a shallower cut so you ‘skim’ over the knot
Haven’t tried this– Don’t buy knotty wood
Unfortunately, this isn’t really possible; I order wood, and they give me wood. I could stand there inspecting the wood and perhaps complain, but I don’t really want to.– Try a card scraper and/or cabinet scraper around the knot
Haven’t tried this yetIs the above advice good, any other tips?
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
You could also try a shallow cut with a low angle plane?
Also, try coming at it from different angles if surrounding grain direction will allow.
You could also try a shallow cut with a low angle plane?
Also, try coming at it from different angles if surrounding grain direction will allow.
Thank you tenjin.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Are you trying to thickness this piece, or is this the final smoothing? Is this knot going to be prominently displayed on the front or top of the piece where people may touch it? Is the greater problem the tearout in the wood behind the knot, or the knot itself?
I find that knots will take away an edge on a plane quite quickly, so it may be worth planing the rest of the piece not paying too much attention to the knot, and then resharpening again, setting for a shallow cut, and working only the area around the knot. Keep your back hand still and rotate your front hand.
One thing not to do is to keep trying the same things, as this will only make it worse. Put your plane down and go and have a cup of tea and come back and try something different.
Getting rid of the tearout could be more easily done with a card scraper, or also working up through the grades of sandpaper. It really depends how much light that area will catch once it’s finished and being used an d how much of an issue that will really be. If it is basically at the final place you want it to be, but you can’t stand the feel of the tearout, it may be worth filling the tearout with a clear epoxy.
Also, remember, this is a handmade piece, so little variations help to add to the character and that you see things like this far more than others will.Colin, Czech Rep.
I get trouble with the thicknessing part and final smoothing. So both, really.
I like the look of knots, I like them prominent in the final piece.
Thinking about it, the bigger problem is the tear-out behind the knot. I guess I can cope with the knot itself (go slow, shallow, angled cut), it’s the tear-out that’s left.
Good advice about knowing when to walk away from a troublesome piece. Most of the time, keeping at it just makes it worse.
Thank you for the advice.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Plane to the edge of the knot then turn around and plane to the edge of the knot. Dont continue past it.
and i find it helps to use short circular strokes
Thanks all, much appreciated. Tear out is the problem – not knots (when I think about it). I lost the plot a bit yesterday; I got into that downward spiral and as was mentioned above, it rarely gets better when that happens.
Actually looking forward to tackling a similar pine wood surface tomorrow.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
Really great advice already but i want to support the card scraper suggestion. Learn to sharpen and use one and it is a game changer
I bought a card scraper a good few months ago, but haven’t sharpened it yet. Time to remedy that methinks.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
If all else fails a card scraper for sure.
A # 80 is also a choice, some wood just has to be sanded smooth.
Knots as features in wood are super when finished. And gives a sense of pride when smooth like the rest of the surface.
I spend a lot of my shop time working with them as i like how they accent a piece.
I tried the ‘English Woodworker’s’ tip about modifying the cap iron to prevent tear-out, and it worked.
http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/cap-irons-tear-out-video/
Along with the advice here, I’m confident about going forward.
Thanks all.
"Sawdust? I think you'll find that's man-glitter."
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