Planning edge square
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- This topic has 22 replies, 10 voices, and was last updated 11 years, 4 months ago by Sinisa.
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Hello Everybody!
Great hints and tips in this thread! Sinisa – I don’t believe in such as beginner questions, because those are the questions, that are asked most rarely, but the answers always remain unsaid. I too find it sometimes hard to square an edge. Of all that has been said earlier:
– cambered iron,
– applying more pressure to one side,
– lighter cuts and often checking (very effective method!),
I’d like to add:
– on twisted edges I sometimes use a shorter plane (i.e. apron plane, block plane) and work in segments to get rid of the twist; this is a method I picked up from Shannon Rogers,
– on thinner stock I use the shooting board, with the edge overhanging slightly over the edge of the top surface of the shooting board (this is a very quick and pleasant method :)).
I must emphasize, that I find the lighter cuts and frequent checks very important. It also applies to thicknessing a board, where at the final stage one creeps up slowly to the desired dimension (Mr. Charlesworths “feathered edge”) with very light cuts.
Kindest regards,
Lukasz.
Hi guys
First of all thank you for all you answers and suggestions (but also in telling me I’m not alone with this issue π ). This community here is willing to help more then some others and hopefully this spirit will continue to go on. Being beginner it is relif to know that out there exist people who are willing to Β help.
I think that I had pick up couple of pointers here that will give me something to work on. So next things are: me, workshop, sharp plane and lots of scraps to play with
BTW, please don’t mind if I come back with some additional questions. I’m really determined to learn this thing and to do it right
Thanks again
17 December 2012 at 3:43 pm #5004I have the same problem and thought I’d share how I put pressure on one side of the plane or the other.
First, make sure the plane is set up correctly and takes a thin, even shaving on a piece of scrap. If the iron isn’t square, neither will your edge be, no matter how hard you try.
When edge planing, I normally have my left thumb (I’m right handed) on the front of the plane and my fingers against the face of the timber I’m planing. I use the thumb to put pressure where it is needed. If the edge is already true to the face then I’ll put my thumb on the middle of the front of the plane, just in front of the tote. If the left is higher than the right, I put thumb pressure on the left side of the plane. No matter where I put my thumb, I make sure to press the plane down pretty hard with my right hand as well, to save putting a back to front camber on the piece.
It seems to work a treat. Take a few light passes with my thumb putting pressure on one side of the plane and it sorts the problem right out. I’m not sure if it’s a proper technique but I found it hard to selectively apply pressure to one side any other way.
George.
Thanks to all posters for your input!
Today I spent about an hour preparing a cambered or curved iron according to David Charlesworths instructions in the article mentioned previously.
I have not had time to evaluate if it is miracle medicine for squareing edges. Report to come when I have some more experience working with this method.
Jesper
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