Question on jointing boards for the tool chest

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    I happen to have some 9″ wide boards that I’d like to use for the tool chest. If the box is going to be about 12″ high with about a 3″ lid, it seems a bit counter-intuitive to joint an extra 3″ on to the board only to saw it off again along the glue line to separate the lid. I guess I could make the lid separately, but it would be hard to get it to align as perfectly with the base. I once saw a technique where someone used a strip of paper in the glue joint between the boards in order to separate them more easily later.

    Any thoughts on the best way to go on this please?

    Many thanks.


    I think the way to go would still be to joint the boards and then cut it later as paul does in the video…making the lid separately would be a lot more work than jointing the boards and sawing the box later, methinks. But of course, you should do what you feel most comfortable with, that’s just what I would do.

    Mark Armstrong

    The main reason for making as one box is that they would be exactly the same and grain would match.Harder to make two different boxes and make them match.
    I would not cut through glue joint either make that the other side so when you do cut you in solid wood.
    I hope that makes sense.

    Dagenham, Essex, England


    Thanks for the responses guys.

    I will joint the boards with the glue line nearer the base of the chest as Mark suggests. It’s all good practice on the basic skills.

    I’ve spent a little time cleaning them up and I think they’ll look quite nice. They were old shelves my neighbour was about to take to the tip. I always love using reclaimed timber.


    Andrew Sinclair

    I’m in exactly the same boat as I’m also using reclaimed shelves, although mine already include edge joints. I will joint them to twelve inches wide once I’ve planed off the polyurethane (man that stuff blunts planes quickly!).

    If I had boards as nice as yours and was not planning to paint (I am though), I’d aim to keep those panels whole on the sides and back.

    I really don’t see why you can’t place the saw kerf exactly on your glue line if you accept the need to plane down a little more on both sides than with a full width board. Just use a marking gauge to define the horizontals. Caveat is I’ve never done it and am a beginner 🙂

    Keep us updated! Cheers, Andy

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