14 January 2015 at 8:03 pm #123538
I have a Veritas carcass saw with crosscut teeth (before I filed them off) and it needed sharpening real bad. I tried but I made a mess of it. Mostly because I am inexperienced and the teeth are almost too small to see. I had planned to reconfigure it to a rip cut pattern, but not this soon. The teeth filled off pretty easy but now I am having issues with re cutting the teeth. I do not need to mention that I follow Paul’s method.
The problem is that my fresh Baco hacksaw blade will not enter the saw plate. I modified the hacksaw blade as advised by Paul. It will not cut. What can be the cause of this? I made sure the blade is suited for metal.
Advice is welcome. It is such a shame to see a nice saw lying on the workbench with no teeth 🙁
Kind regards.14 January 2015 at 9:06 pm #123540Matt McGraneParticipant
Michael, the only thing I can think of is maybe the hacksaw teeth are cutting in the opposite direction you are sawing. Will it not cut the saw plate in either direction?
Matt, Northern California - Started a blog in 2016: http://tinyshopww.blogspot.com/14 January 2015 at 9:15 pm #123542
I have tried the hacksaw blade in both directions. The outcome was the same.
The only thing I can think of is that the teeth are too coarse, but that seems unlikely.14 January 2015 at 11:16 pm #123543Jim MountParticipant
Well my first thought was actually Matt’s…great minds and all that. Veritas blades are made in Japan of high carbon steel. It MAY be that this steel is a little bit harder than the softer steel of the old-time back saws which Paul was working with. I would inquire directly from Veritas. Without knowing more, I would guess that the problem is with the saw blade or with the way you hammered out the waves in the blade. That said, don’t give up. There are many ways to cut teeth in a saw; the easiest (other than Paul’s method) is to down load or make a paper pattern, and glue it to the saw plate. Then you can go to work directly with the file saw. I know from experience with Veritas saws, that they can be sharpened with a saw file. That saw is an outstanding tool, and as you said, it would be a shame to leave it laying about unused.
Too late for you now, but for others reading this post, it’s not necessary to remove teeth in order to change from CC to rip. Just sharpen the saw, but use a rip orientation – straight across. Just be sure you alternate the teeth, as the change over will not happen with one sharpening, but will happen over say three to four sharpenings.
Let us know how you get on
jim15 January 2015 at 1:38 am #123548Matt McGraneParticipant
Jim makes a great point about bypassing the hacksaw and just using the files. The main reason Paul uses the hacksaw is to remove the bulk of material so the files don’t have to work so hard. The files wear down after a while and they can be expensive. So you can always start right in with a file. Just remember to go carefully and have that template affixed to the plate to guide your cuts.
Matt, Northern California - Started a blog in 2016: http://tinyshopww.blogspot.com/15 January 2015 at 4:31 am #123552MooncabbageMember
There is a saw doctor near me who makes bandsaw blades, and sharpens things for industry, but will retooth or sharpen handsaws for $30. If all else fails, try to find a saw doctor.15 January 2015 at 1:35 pm #123555
Although I never tried this method (using the hacksaw) myself I can try to help you solving your problems.
Are you using a light touch when entering the blade with your hacksaw?
Is the sawblade properly secured (close to the teeth line?) in a vice etc? I once experienced difficulties sharpening a saw which wasn’t properly secured close to the teeth, my saw file was very difficult to start as a result. I think the saw blade was bending away from me while filing.
If everything still fails I’m willing to sharpen the saw for you, rip or crosscut.
Kind regards from a fellow Dutchman,
Nico15 January 2015 at 10:06 pm #123575
Thanks to all for replying. I do everything Paul says and does in the video. That means a light touch, saw blade properly clamped etc etc.
I will look into the paper pattern method. I still wonder why it will not cut. So I’ll keep experimenting with that too.
@Nico: thank you for the offer but I really need to master this skill 🙂16 January 2015 at 11:57 am #123582
… I really need to master this skill …
That’s the spirit! 🙂17 January 2015 at 1:43 pm #123609
I have used a template and cut the teeth with a file. The process ruined the file, but the saw cuts again. I did end up with teeth that are a little uneven in height and width. Hopefully I can correct this with subsequent sharpening. I think Paul’s method is way easier, but I had no choice.
@Nico: which files do you use and where do you buy them?20 January 2015 at 12:20 pm #123714
I tried various files (Skandia, Bahco etc) but I prefer the saw files from Fine Tools/Dieter Schmid, those DICK branded files are good quality for a good price in my opinion. Available in many sizes.
One of my most used DICK files is still going strong after restoring and sharpening several (4?) vintage saws. They should last pretty long when only used for resharpening or touch ups.
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