Repair to benchleg
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I think this was the first one I glued up. I suspected there wasn’t enough glue toward the egde, and that suspicion is confirmed by the crack which runs up the bottom-half of the leg. It feels secure still, as the gap is only 3-4mm deep, and the through-mortice obviously holds the laminated pieces together.
Not sure how to best approach it. Mix some glue with dust and fill it then clamp it?
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Glue is not typically a good filler and thick layers of glue don’t lend any strength to the joints. You also take the chance that the crack will continue to grow…. I’d consider replacing the leg or cutting it back apart and re-glue.. Depending on where you are in the build.
It does go back together when clamped…marginally. I think with a clamp bearing sufficient pressure it will close back up. Should I use a stronger adhesive? I’ve used ordinary Titebond up to now.
Sandy. I don’t think this is an option now. The legs are built, and those tenons are never coming apart, they just about went in!!
Frank, it’s really hard to say. It sounds like the joint was starved of glue and has split open. I’ve never experienced this because I use far too much glue when gluing, far far too much. I end up with different issues than this 🙂
If it were me I would just pour in some of that tightbond and clamp the joint tight. If it doesn’t clamp tight then maybe look at using epoxy or some other gap filler type glue.
Franko, Was it cold when you glued this up? I use titebond glue as well and have notice some issues if the temps are cold in my shop when I apply it. Normally when the glue dries it turns a translucent yellow color but when it’s cold it has a powdery white look. I’m just guessing of course but I believe the glue may not be as effective in that condition when you have stresses in the wood. I’d give her another shot of glue and clamp it up again and see what happens.. I hope that works because that is aggravating when you have done so much work on you project.
It wasn’t terribly cold when I glued up, although that doesn’t mean it wasn’t a factor I guess. The glue drops dried to a dark yellow, and didn’t seem powdery when i scraped them off the table (and the floor!)
I can’t see myself removing the joint after all this work, so I hope filling it resolves the issue.
If all else fails Franko, you could always introduce a few long 2 1/2 inch screws to the situation, glue, clamp tight and then drive some screws in to make sure it stays put. Its not likely to create any issues once its all together. It is a workbench after all. If it were a piece of furniture then I’d seriously consider replacing the leg but…
My workbench had all the problems because it was built right from the very start of my hand tool learning. It ended up twisted, not square, the top laminated with no concern for grain direction, etc. I didn’t even trim the ends of the top. But it works, and its now flat and square once I understood what flat and square meant 🙂
5 April 2014 at 8:39 pm #49725If there is still a gap afar clamping could you not make thin wedges to fill the gap , which could be glued in position and then clamped.
I hadn’t even considered wedges or screws; so simple yet I overlooked them. The glue is rather gloopy, and wasn’t easy to get into the gaps (which ran deeper than I suspected). I’m going over it again to make sure they are filled, then leaving for 24 hours, then unclamping. If needed, the screws are on stand-by.
7 April 2014 at 6:59 pm #52256I would run and hand saw down into the gap, cut a tapered cut along a scrap to create a 4-5mm wide feather-edged slither to fit into the gap and glue it into the opening and reclamp. i would weight a little t o make sure there is no more movement. It is most unlikely to move further. I suspect that the wood was insufficiently dry. Most likely over 20%. No matter how much glue, clamping or screws can stop this if the wood still has high MC.
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