Are any of you all using a bandsaw in the same way Paul depicts in his latest Seller’s home videos? He planes a face and reference edge then uses the bandsaw to saw the adjacent faces. He is basically using his bandsaw to resaw the board to thickness where most machine woodworkers would use a thickness planer.
I’ve been doing everything by hand up until now and have decided to add a bandsaw to my workshop. I was originally just planning on getting a model capable of ripping boards and continue thicknessing my boards with a scrub plane. If I’m planning on using a bandsaw to resaw the boards, it seems like I’ll have to spend a good deal more to get a saw capable of reducing the thickness on 8″ plus wide boards (e.g., reducing an 4’x8″X 1″ board to 4′ X 8X 3/4″).
Have any of you all tried Paul’s approach here? What do you think would be the minimum specs I should look for in a machine to be able to follow Paul’s approach?
I’ve read Paul’s excellent blogs, but he does not address reducing a stocks thickness in the articles.
As a side note, the price of band saws has increased drastically over the past year in the US. A model that use to cost around $1,000 is now going for around $1,500.
I use a record power bs400 (link below) which has been brilliant. Everything else is handtools. The bandsaw has allowed me to rip and resaw very large stock including trees I’ve felled. It’ll take a 1″ blade and cut up to around 12″ thickness stock. I’ve ripped 9 or 10″ thick stock on it and although a bit slower going at that thickness it still cut very well. Blades easy to replace. Would thoroughly recommend. Easily cuts an 8″ veneer. I think it might be a similar or perhaps same (though rebranded/differently branded) version as Paul’s though perhaps not.
Sorry, I didn’t directly answer your question. Yes, I use the bandsaw like a thickness planer. If set up correctly, the cut is accurately square enough to give a good result. The saw marks are quickly removed by handplane.