Saw restoration
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Mark Armstrong.
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16 June 2013 at 3:52 am #13568
Some time ago I bought an old saw on E-Bay – 14″ Drabble and Sanderson, late 1800’s. It was a little rusty and the handle was broken. I cleaned the blade, leveled the tooth line, sharpened (using Paul’s method for saw sharpening, easy to do and saw cuts crosscut or rip cut very fast and I really like the performance). During the teeth setting 4 teeth broke in different spots((( I was a little sad about it. I’m wondering, is it going to happen in the future again? I know it’s a rusty saw, but I really like it. I did a test cut and was very happy with it – smooth, fast cut, very heavy in hand, even missing teeth don’t affect the performance. I made a new handle, but going to keep the old one too. Still working on it, and hope I’ll finish this project in a few days)
Toronto, Canada
Nice saw. I can’t imagine there anyway of telling whether the teeth will snap off. Is the metal thinner or pitted around those spot where the teeth has broke. These could be areas where you could guess where they might possibly snap in future.
Lincolnshire, England
www.joesleightwoodworker.co.uk16 June 2013 at 10:30 am #13575Great job Serhiy well done I should not think a few missing teeth will make a lot of difference, What did you make the handle out of
Wigan, Lancs. England :
16 June 2013 at 6:24 pm #13587You’re right Joe, it’s really hard to predict with old saws.
David, I made this handle from walnut offcuts from my local lumber yard, paid only $4. I used coping saw and Grobet Swiss® 4-in-1 Rasp/File for shaping.Toronto, Canada
19 June 2013 at 6:52 pm #13737Well done Serhiy 😉
The odd tooth should not affect saw. But pitting will cause problems for obvious reasons as saw plate will be weaker in those spots. So more likely to break when setting.
I have a sandvik tenon saw and handle wobbles and I cannot tighten screws any more. So I have a bit of spare Walnut and bought some new split nuts so I will make a new handle when I get time.Dagenham, Essex, England
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