Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
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  • #650721
    Matt Chappel
    Participant

    I have recently acquired an old panel saw. It is 26 in. and 7 tpi. sharpened rip cut. It had a bit of a bend in it and a fair amount of rust when I first got it but being this is my fist larger sized saw I went ahead and gave it a try. It didn’t cut too bad considering its condition but I definitely noticed what I would call some whip. As I pulled back the tip of the sawed moved rapidly from side to side making it hard to withdraw with any speed ( I would not call this chatter or vibration). I was ripping white pine 1.5 inch and 3.5 in thick.
    I removed the handle, sanded the plate smooth then removed the bend and sharpened the teeth. It seems to have a good set if not too much so I did not reset. It cuts better but I am still experiencing some whip although much less.
    Is this now user error? As I said this is my first larger saw. Is there some common setup I am missing? If this has already been discussed please redirect me. I could not find anything using the search function.

    Kind Regards,
    Matt

    #650781
    joemonahan
    Participant

    Matt – I recently bought a similar saw. It was used but being sold by someone who obviously knew how to keep it very sharp. It ripped through wood in a rough and difficult way. So I ran a test comparing it to 2 “japanese” style saws I bought for less than $20. The one in the link below and a similar one but larger. Both of these inexpensive cuts cut much faster, more accurately didnt want to wander as much), where much easier to start without damaging the wood, and left a neat, fine saw curf cut.

    So while I cant help you with your problem I can suggest you consider chucking it and buying these saws with the curved handles for better grip.

    https://www.amazon.com/Okada-Japanese-Z-Saw-S-265-Guides/dp/B000U6OUKK/ref=sr_1_60?gclid=CjwKCAiA7t3yBRADEiwA4GFlI0yktv7ZnKXJJvyYpIXoqZ-EssAhAqF-2nsuaRiORBjJpdi_0qsBwxoCi3kQAvD_BwE&hvadid=409942977291&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1015640&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=668857715168895031&hvtargid=aud-840076997981%3Akwd-295977298694&hydadcr=24662_11410883&keywords=japanese+saw&qid=1582816183&sr=8-60

    #652740
    Keith Szczepanski
    Participant

    I have actually experienced the same problem with a couple of saws. I would be interested in some experienced ideas on the problem also. Just replacing the saw doesn’t help.

    #654026
    Tad
    Participant

    This is only a guess, but maybe you are pulling the saw back through the cut on an angle and not perpendicular to the kerf. This would cause it to flip back and forth at the tip until the saw was drawn all the way through.
    I think having it set too much on one side can cause this also. Of course, I could be way off, but I had a saw do this and I took the set out (Like Paul describes in one of his videos) and re-sharpened and re-set the teeth and now there is no flipping back and forth.
    YMMV.
    Tad

    #654048
    Ecky H
    Participant

    Is it some kind of noisy fluttering of the saw toe/tip?

    Beside the “not perpendicular to the kerf” as mentioned by @Tad, I noticed such a behaviour of a saw with relatively coarse toothing,
    much set and machine sharpened (iow: a new Spear & Jackson 7tpi saw).
    The fluttering lessens when the full with of the saw blade is in the saw kerf and when I lower the angle I offer the saw to the wood.

    Hope this helps,

    E.

    Veni, vidi, serravi.

    Münster, Germany

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