Spear and Jackson 9500R: Resharpening to Rip Tooth

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Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)
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  • #743830
    Jim Joy
    Participant

    Hey Everyone,

    I saw Paul’s video where he resharpens a Spear and Jackson handsaw to a rip tooth. I am debating buying a 10ppi Spear and Jackson panel saw to try this out, but I was wondering if anyone who has tried this can comment on one specific point:

    When doing this, should you leave the rake angle unchanged, or is it helpful/possible to lessen the rake?

    Thanks in advance. As I said, I’m thinking about giving this a shot, but am also debating vintage options as a possibility and wanted to get some opinions from people who have tried this.

    Best,
    Jim

    #743837
    Jim Joy
    Participant

    I should admit that I should have listened when he says “The angle is perfect, I don’t need to make any changes to it”. I suppose that gives me my answer!

    #743840
    Matt Mahan
    Participant

    Hey Jim. I’m no expert, but I’ve been sharpening saws a long time and have tweaked/altered/mutilated/perfected my share. I’d consider the rake to be up for optimization as well, because you’re taking the file strokes anyway. In general, all of my favorite rip saws have had aggressive rake – more aggressive than a typical crosscut saw certainly. So just something to consider. I’m not sure what rake your SJ saw will come with though, so benefit may be minimal. Either way, will be a fun conversion – keep us posted.

    #743846
    Matt Mahan
    Participant

    I should admit that I should have listened when he says “The angle is perfect, I don’t need to make any changes to it”. I suppose that gives me my answer!

    “Perfect, perfect, perfect”

    #743910
    Joost Borst
    Participant

    If you havent bought the saw yet and plan on cutting long boards I suggest getting the version with bigger teeth, meaing a lower tpi.

    I got the 10 tpi converted to rip but it doesnt cut as fast as I would like to. On the other hand the 10 tpi in rip still cuts crosscuts easily.

    Also if you dont have a rasp and a file yet get them aswell cause you want to modify the handle. Its really uncomfortable but a hour or two with the rasp, file and sandpaper really makes a huge difference.

    #743995
    Jim Joy
    Participant

    Thanks for the suggestions!

    I found a listing for a 12 ppi Rip Filed D-8 that seems to be in pretty good shape. With shipping, it was about the same cost as the S&J saw. I’m hopeful that it will become a good user for finish cuts with a light filing! Plus, I anticipate that the handle will come with a better default shape that I can refine over time.

    Thank you also for the suggestion on getting the 7 PPI saw. I actually already have a 5 PPI Keen Kutter Rip Saw. It needs a bit of work, and the handle is not the most comfortable, but it generally gets the job done.

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