Staney 62 …made by Juuma
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I have a doubt about this plane ( it remains a good plane , in my humble opinion , i’m just a roockie). The problem is that: after sharpening and honing the iron by hand and obtaining a good edge many times, i found that i have to laterally adust the iron all to the right if i want that the entire edge cut the wood…In other words if i adjust the iron perferctly parallel to the mouth line , the iron itself wiil cut more deeply at the left side cornerwhile barely touches the wood near the right side corner. So i have to adjust laterally the iron on one side . I hope you could understand what i mean writing my poor technical english.
I think it maybe that you are planing more towards your dominate side that is to say if your right handed you tend to plane heavier towards the right and so on, at least I do. I always notice it more when I have just sharpened a plane.
Or are you getting really heavy cuts at the very edge of the blade? in that instance it might be you need to camber the extreme edges of the blade a little.
But before you take on what I say, please read some of the more sagely responses that are sure to come.
I am certain Paul has covered this in Masterclasses or on his blog so a quick search could be the order of the day.
I hope this helps
13 August 2014 at 8:18 pm #60357I would suggest that you plane a piece of wood say 1/4″ wide. Cutting with the left and right side of the blade . Adjust the the blade till you get shavings of equal thickness from both sides .Keep backing off the cut till you get very thin shavings. You should now be able to get shavings the full width of the blade. Once set you should be able to adjust the depth of cut and still get shavings of equal thickness across the blade
13 August 2014 at 8:28 pm #60383First thing to check is that iron is square. Or if you slight cambered iron check with square to see if there is the same amount of gap each side of iron in relation to the square.
On the plane you have there is not a great deal of lateral adjustment.
If out of square iron need truing up.
Make sure lever cap is placed in position squarely if not it can put uneven pressure on the iron.
The beds on these plane are normally pretty good. Check to see if anything can cause iron not to sit right. Check the sides of casting where meets bed should be nice and square if need be with these situations you may need to take a fine file to side and the bed.
A good way to check that you iron is protruding equally is to use a slither of wood about 3mm 1/8″ wide set your iron so it just protrudes the sole of the plane with sole facing up to you drag the slither of wood across the mouth of the plane in the middle and then the edges you should have an equal shaving at each spot of the iron.
Obviously if cambered iron you would have a slightly thick shaving in middle of iron. Make sure the shavings on the edges equal to one another.
If plan set right you should be ok check your board before you start planing. If board not square take a few stroke to correct it on the side that needs to come down once square you can continue to plane the edge straight.
I usually put my thumb on the toe of the plane and use my fingers underneath to help guide the plane and to keep square.
Those 62 low angle planes can take a very nice fine shaving and are great for shooting board work.
Hope helps.Thank you guys! To control blade positioning i use the method suggested in David post. The fact is that: iron edge ias out of square …so i have to regrind it , it’s nota simple thing to grind it accurate square using a bench grinder… are there some tips to doa good job?
Hope i can post pictures of the Whole thingsI don’t have a grinder. I have fixed many out of square plane irons, chisels, etc. by using a Draper or Eclipse honing guide, 60 grit sandpaper and a flat granite block. Takes about 10-15 minutes to get it square. I then go to 120, 240 then the diamond plates. Just take your time and shake off the 60 grit paper frequently. I also use a brush to clean off the paper.Good luck.
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