Stanley #50 plow plane
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Hi all, I picked up a Stanley 50 plow plane off ebay awhile back. I got all of the blades, screws, instruction manuals and it was in great shape. However I cannot get the thing to work! I start at the edge of the wood like P.S. shows and it takes all my force to get the plane to move. I’ll get a shaving but then it quickly clogs or the blades gets pushed shallower until nothing will happen. Basically I’m lost..lol. I ‘ve fiddled with it awhile trying to figure it out, but am losing my patience. I’ve been trying the 1/2″ cutter and I sharpened just like a plane iron or chisel so I don’t think that has anything to do with it.
thanks in advance,
BobMaybe the cutting edge is sharpened at the wrong angle? I don’t know what the right angle is, but you may be able to find it online.
Bob, maybe try a thinner iron. A 1/2″ iron can take a LOT of force to get through the wood. Try 1/4″ if you have it and see how that works.
I’m not familiar with the #50, but I’m certain there are a many things that can cause clogging. Taking too big a bite, for example, can cause that. Like other planes, you can lubricate the sole (skate, in this case) and the fence to make the action smoother.
Keep trying – I’m sure it’s something just not set up quite right. When you get it, you’ll know.
Matt, I don’t want to burst your bubble but I do believe that I have you beat as being the slowest woodworker in the South. Just ask anybody that knows me and they will kindly confirm. lol
Just to give you an example, ever since Paul came out with the milling up long rough stock for the trestle table project that’s exactly what I have been doing and Im still not finished. Now That’s slow. My arms look like Popeye the Sailor mans, after the spinach fix of course. I believe I’m on my sixth fifty gallon drum of wood shavings. My Joiner and Planer has been cursing me for neglect. rightfully so. This is hard work when you don’t have a clue as to what your doing. Take care, ChrisI do have a Stanley 50 as well, and like it very much. My guess without seeing pictures is that you are taking to big of a cut and you are planning into the grain. I would sharpen the blade again, and set it to take a paper thin shaving. The one particular about the Stanley 50, is that it was designed to be a beading plane that they decided to included straight bits, that is why the depth stop stops at 5/16″..
Enjoy your plane!!
Dan
Thanks for the replies folks! I’ll give it another go the next night or two.
Bob
I have a #45 but don’t know how it compares with the #50 with regards to construction. I suppose that they are not that different. I have noticed on the #45 that it is important to make sure that the spurs are sharp and the outside edge of the sliding guide is absolutely in line with the edge of the cutter/iron. If the guide is set (much) wider than the iron it acts as a depth stop. If it is fractionally wider it binds on the edge of the groove you are trying to plane out. Giving it a polish and wipe with an oily rag helped. Blunt spurs seemed to gather wood fibres which added to the resistance. Sharp spurs, smooth lubricated guides and accurate alignment of the guide (the one with the “D” handle) and a good sharp iron set to cut a very thin shaving all helped me in planning out rebates, oh and a fair bit of time getting to grips with the technique of using the thing. Its still a lot more satisfying, less noisy, less dusty, less messy and far more relaxed than using a 1.5HP 20,000RPM plunge router.
Thanks Gooner. I have it another go last night and had better success! I sharpen up good and took thin shavings and got something resembling a groove. Your dead on with “getting to grips with technique of using the thing” Going to take some practice, but at least I’m making progress. One thing I didn’t realize is that this tool was really made for right handed people, of course I am left handed. But I’ll figure it out, I’ve been living in a right handed world my whole life and am used to having to do things the wrong way :)!
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