I wanted to bump this question as it begs answering, I think.

Anyways, most things I make are from pine, so I’ll get some 2x8s and cut them to size. I have only made one project from hardwood and I bought lumber from a hardwood dealer that was very close in thickness to what I wanted. I then ripped to width and crosscut to length.

Also, I went out and picked up a jointer and thicknesser to go along with my table saw. Preparing stock took up most of my time and I wanted to focus on joinery.

I buy rough, cut and plane. Planed wood, particularly planed softwoods, always need re-truing anyway. That said it often takes out a lot of the work.

If I can, I go with the thickness I can get from the board; i.e., if you buy 1″ board and plan to finish at 3/4, but after truing your face side find you can get 7/8 from it, finish at that thickness. Rarely is it vital to hit a particular number. Of course this principle applies just as well to machine planing but has much more pertinence to the hand tool woodworker.

Matt

I buy rough sawn, and try to get stock close to thicknesses I need…I am fortunate to have a small mill nearby that carries a wide selection of North American hardwoods at prices that I am almost embarrassed to repeat, and that can be had in a variety of thicknesses and widths. After that, 100% by hand. I am a carpenter by trade, so use power tools all day long at my job; working with hand tools is immeasurably more rewarding and relaxing, even at the times that it might otherwise qualify as “work”…and the end results are most satisfying indeed.

Until my most recent project, I’ve been using reclaimed wood or purchased 1 x 6 or 2 x 6 pine. With all my larger power tools in storage, I’m doing almost everything by hand. Resawing is a real chore, but I like the exercise. I just hope my hands and shoulders can handle it as I get older. I’d love to have the space for a bandsaw.

My most recent project used rough cut Douglas Fir. Far more expensive than I’m used to, but it was really worth it for some quality wood. The rough dimensions were full sized 2″ x 6″ and 1″ x 6″, so I could get 7/8″ thickness out of the 1″ material. I needed some 1 1/4″ for the legs, so I ripped and resawed the 2″ x 6″ to close dimensions, then planed to final dims.

I roughed out the pieces for a single dining chair at the same time as the pieces for the stool and I probably spent 25% of my time on getting the materials to rough size.

I like what Matt – @chemical_cake – said above. Depending on your project, you may not need to care what the exact final dimensions are. I’m learning that more as I progress. Remember Paul’s “occasional table” project? The four apron pieces were different thicknesses. But by referencing off the outside face of each apron piece, the tenons are all cut appropriately to leave the correct reveal / inset from the legs. And nobody is the wiser unless they get underneath the table with a caliper.

My answer is a little different. I find after restoring hand tools, that 4 squaring the lumber for use is one of the more satisfying parts of the project. I am starting to “coarse square” my lumber ahead of needs simply because it relaxes me. I am in IT by trade, and getting to spend a few hours in a low tech woodshop heal the soul.

It is so much easier to rip and square a previously 4-sq’d board to size than it is to rip, square and dimension a rough cut board. Also gives me an excuse to practice sharpening and maintaining the tools.