Tear out when using router plane
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6 December 2014 at 1:29 am #121874
I decided to have a go at making the sharpening plate holder as way to get the feel of using the various tools before I jump into building the workbench.
I followed Paul’s blog post with the exception that I have two plates (the DMT Double Sided ones) rather than the three Paul uses.
I used a bit of DAR pine from the local Bunnings.
When it came to chiselling out the recesses, I found that when I used the router, (Veritas), it cut well enough but going across the grain it wanted to tear out and splinter. I kept using the chisel to cut the fibres and followed it us with the router, creeping up to my final depth.
I got it done, but the resul is less than perfect. The bottom of the recesses are far from smooth and the walls have splintered up in several places despite my efforts to try and create defined chisel cuts to prevent this.
I’m not overly fussed, it’s a workbench accessory not a piece of fine furniture but the whole exercise only has value if I learn something for next time.
Should I have used the pointed blade for routing across the grain? Is it just the nature of pine to want to split and splinter?
What can I do differently next time to improve my skills and get a better result?Andrew
6 December 2014 at 2:40 am #121880I ran into that same problem making the tenons of my workbench. I was using SYP 2×4’s for the stretchers. What Michael suggested only occurred to me as I was doing the last couple and it worked pretty good.
What I do is stay away from the edges when using the router. Clean up and edge refinement is done after I’ve got to depth and cleaned out most of the waste with the router. As far as tearout goes, I use a chisel to get close to depth then take very fine cuts/depth adjustments routing with the grain as much as possible. The depth adjustments on my router are not that fine so I take maybe an 1/8 of turn.
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