Too Long to Clamp
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- This topic has 9 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 8 months ago by John-Paul Treen.
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3 August 2014 at 2:19 pm #60004
Hi All,
How would you approach a project you don’t have clamps long enough for?
I am building a 2 meter long table. How would you approach this? These are the thoughts I’ve been having.
- Use ratchet straps (like are used on lorries).
- Don’t clamp, just rely on the quality of the joint (and maybe use drawbore joints)?
- Make clamping positions the rails to allow for using shorter clamps?
- Buy clamps that I don’t have space for.
Most of my projects are at most 90cm in their longest dimension, in part because they are the longest clamps I have.
Anyone else have any ideas?
John,
I’d probably go the ratchet clamp route using corner blocks with the outside edge rounded and waxed to provide some slippage for the straps.
This will probably pull the assembly out of square so you’ll have to check that and make adjustments before the glue sets.Pony type pipe clamps also work well and if you string several shorter sections of pipe together with connectors you can get the length and not end up with one long expensive clamps but several shorter ones that will be more useful.
Best,
Craig3 August 2014 at 7:25 pm #60052You might take a straight board and notch it 5cm or thereabouts from each end. You then clamp from the notch to the outside edges of your project, so that you have clamp-board-clamp.
4 August 2014 at 6:41 am #60075Hey all!
Thanks for your suggestions.
My main focus for this is not to buy anything. I’ve been thinking of getting cramp heads for a while, but there’s always been something else to get!
I rather like your suggestion, David, but isn’t a notch going to come with a risk of splitting the wood under high pressure?
I worry that ratchet straps will end up with me running about with a square making lots of micro-adjustments. I don’t really like stressful glue-ups!
I’m chopping the mortises for the legs this week so I’ll do a dry fit when I’m done and see how it’s going to work.
Many thanks!
J-P
4 August 2014 at 9:39 am #60079If you’re ok with the look of it, drawboring is probably the easiest option. If the joints are tight, the drawbore pins will pull everything together and keep it that way.
Even if you had a clamping system that could manage a 2m span, the logistics of moving everything into position over that distance could be difficult if you’re going the assembly by yourself!
George.
John-Paul,
You answered your own question. If the joint is mortice and tenon draw boring is my preferred joining method. Especially so on large projects for several reasons. The first is no need for clamps, second is no need for glue, and third the joint is stronger than a glue joint. As an additional advantage because of no glue there is no “glue up” stress. When it is time for final assembly it is like putting TinkerToys together….A leisurely put one joint together, drive the pins, go on the the next and repeat until there are no more bores to fill.
If the joints are dovetails they should pull up tight enough with no need for a clamp.
ken
5 August 2014 at 9:32 pm #60126Here is another trick if you don’t have long enough clamps:
http://lumberjocks.com/GnarlyErik/blog/354109 August 2014 at 2:11 pm #60204Why did I not think of that trick? I’m filing that away for use at a later date, I love it.
With this project I’ve decided to go with drawboring. It seemed the simplest solution to my problem, and I’ve never used them in a real project before, only in test joints, so it’ll be a learning experience!
The only problem I’m anticipating is that if the joint doesn’t come together perfectly square when I hammer in the drawbore pins, it adds extra stress to the frame. Fortunately I’m using quite a soft hardwood (poplar), so it should work out.
Oddly, I’m not at all concerned about getting the offsets correct. I’m happy to eyeball it.
J-P
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