Tuning my rusty saw arsenal
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When I found hand tool woodworking, I quickly ran out and bought several hand saws at local goodwill stores for a steal. Once my family found out I was interested, they gave me even more. I now have a set of saws in various states of disrepair that I’d like to tune up. I’m not afraid of sharpening/retoothing in order to get these things back to working order. Unfortunately, I’m not really too sure what a good setup would be.
I have the following saws:
– 24” & 3 x 26” hand saws (filed for various uses)
– 12” back saw with no teeth (I jointed it the other day and then I got side tracked)
– 13” back saw with a very fine but dull tooth
– 10” dovetail saw (It is a Disston K-1 which is in great shape)
– 24” backsaw & 26” backsaw. Both are used with mitre boxes, but I only have one rather iffy mitre box (but it is a fun toy and for $3 what could go wrong)So, as a Seller’s student, I’m tempted to file all the saws as a progressive rip. I’m always using knife walls and I like the technique better than I like having a dedicated cross cut and rip cut saw.
That being said, I’d enjoy using my two huge hacksaws to do miter work so they will probably stay cross cut.
What spread of tooth counts, and filings would you guys undertake in my situation?
Nate
15 October 2013 at 12:59 am #19973I would keep A couple of Hand saws with a cross cut fleam 20° 10 tpi and 8tpi better for cutting across wider and thicker boards.
One of 26″ Dedicated rip saw less than 6TPI ripping thicker stock 2″ mark
It is still nice to have a dedicated cross cut backed saw.
Don’t know how deep those mitre saws are. If they are 4″ deep or more I would consider one as a proper tenon saw for bigger tenons filed progressive rip about 11tpi.
Your Dovetail wants to be about 16tpi. PR
Your other backed saws about 13tpi PR
The beauty about doing you own saws it is not too hard to change them 😉 -
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