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Wood drying

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Previous Back to: Wood and Wood Preparation8 Replies

Welcome! / Forums / General Woodworking Discussions / Wood and Wood Preparation / Wood drying

Tagged: Wood and wood preparation

  • This topic has 8 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 6 years, 11 months ago by foz68.
  • Author
    Posts
  • sawtooth1
    15 January 2016 at 6:19 pm #133922

    Hello, I bought some 2×4 wood in fir and pine for a bench build. How long do I wait for the wood to dry before use. I bought it at a local Home Depot. It’s been about 5 days and I would like to start laminating the top. Is this reasonable or do I need to wait? Also, I was going to use Titebond11 wood glue which has a fast set time. Should I use a slower drying glue? Thanks, Jb

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    MaxWheeler
    16 January 2016 at 2:44 pm #133937

    I would use a glue with a slow set time it will make it easier to manoeuvre the pieces of timber into alignment.

    Secondary seasoning normally takes 14-20 days to ac climate to its new surroundings. I wouldn’t make a workbench out of anything with a moisture content of 20% or less. I think it should be okay, by the time you’ve laminated everything and surface planed it flush flat and square… it should be okay!

    Swindon, England

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    sawtooth1
    16 January 2016 at 4:37 pm #133938

    Thank you. Are you saying it would be OK to get started or wait the 14 days? What is the ideal moisture range?

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    Alien8
    17 January 2016 at 9:44 am #133946

    Preferably as dry as it is in your shop.

    The wood will take up and release moisture which continuously varies al year round.

    If your wood is too moist, chances are it’ll warp or split when drying. That’s why you’d want to acclimate your wood to the shop.

    Also try to plane (surface prep) your glue sides and glue up the lamination the same day to minimize any chances of warp, bow… once glued up, there’s less chance of excessive deformation.

    HTH Diego

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    MaxWheeler
    18 January 2016 at 12:58 am #133973

    The reverse is also true, if it’s too dry and the environment it’s supposed to live in is more moist it can lead to glue joint failure over time.

    I would say it’s certainly prudent to wait the 14days (or not). It’s not essential, I don’t secondary season anything that’s a shop project. But if I lived in a rather damp country and had kiln dried timber I think I would let them settle in the workshop first.

    Hope that helps! If your wood was stored in a similar environment to your workshop (like if it’s under shelter but in an unheated area like a shed or garage, it will be fine) you need not secondary season.

    Swindon, England

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    MaxWheeler
    18 January 2016 at 12:59 am #133974

    Joinery timber is always 20% moisture content or dryer. Furniture timber is even dryer.

    Swindon, England

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    sawtooth1
    18 January 2016 at 2:35 am #133975

    Thanks everyone. this info was very helpful. Jb

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    foz68
    14 February 2016 at 6:54 pm #134783

    Hi everyone, i have a similar question and thought it would be good to piggy back off this thread, hope that is ok.

    I am also wanting to build a bench after being inspired by this fantastic resource by Paul.

    We have had our fence recently replaced and the old fence had some 70cm square soft wood posts that are not in too bad a state. I have them in my cold garage on blocks thinking they might dry out. Some of the knots have some sap seeping out.

    In terms of size, i thought they would be great for the legs of my workbench.

    Could i ask, am i wasting my time with these, or could they be salvaged and if so, how long would you think for them to dry out here in damp England.

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers

    Andy

    Settings
    foz68
    15 February 2016 at 10:53 am #134799

    I should correct myself, they are 70mm square posts.

    Good job i don’t work for NASA.

    Andy

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