The hull was built of pine, the trim and seat of red oak, handle is mostly hickory, and the storage compartments were of all three. This is where I stretched the limits of my machines and began to realize they could not provide me the level of craftsmanship I desired in my work. Woodworking Masterclasses with Paul Sellers has lifted me over that hump. With his methods using sharp irons and traditional skills you soon become the crafts person of your project. The result of your work then, only comes from the intentional actions of your trained body and creative mind.
my smaller and simplified version of the joiners tool box
6 board pine chest, dovetailed, cherry trim. fancy ropework beckets, hand forged strap hinges
Walnut table based on the occasional table series. Round top rather than square and changed the apron profile.
Found this huge 30″ mesquite and added crape Myrtle legs from my neighbors brush pile. Turned out quite lovely. My son approved of it.
Made out of a hardwood pallet, used for draws and top, don’t know what it is, oak frame and legs. Project from a book.
Walnut and ash, own design.
African Padouk Buffet with beech raised panels, hoop pine drawer sides and backs and mackay cedar top and door panels. With 127 dovetails in total. Made for a HSC school project at the kings school Australia.
Walnut, a project from a wooden toys book, children and adults love them, they are great!
Islamic Prayer Times Wall Clock
I made this Desk basing it on various MasterClass projects; tool cabinet drawers, occasional table and the craftsmen lamp. The desk is made from White Oak with Sapele addded to the handles. I had to make the legs out of White Ash and then laminate the Oak on top as I didn’t have any Oak thick enough – I based them on the Stickley method. This is the first project I’ve done that is my design.
I modified the coffee table project to be taller and narrower, and left out the magazine rack. This table was designed to hold a statue. Material is walnut with 4 coats of garnet shellac and paste wax on the top. the upper tenons were designed as mitred tenons that meet each other within the leg.
Walnut finished with grain fill and oil.
cabinet made of pine, painted on a turned leg stand
My own design in cherry, pine and birch ply. Hand tied “hardware” and kolrosing decoration.
Pine Chest made from old recycled pine furniture
Pine Chest made from old recycled pine furniture
Simpler toolchest variation for my wife’s hobby, second woodworking project after workbench.
My wife originally asked for a Full-length mirror, but I also wanted to build her a jewelry box, so I decided to combine the two. Finished the project the week of Christmas. It wasn’t a surprise, but she is grateful nonetheless. It’s an original design with cues from a few products I found surfing the web. The 1/8”-thick earring rack is something I came up with because a few of my wife’s earrings won’t fit over the common rack’s top slot and I thought it was an inconvenience to remove the backing just to mount it through a whole, so the apostrophe shape seemed like the best remedy. The ring storage is 1/8”-thick, dovetailed mahogany box (11-7/8”L x 3-3/4”W x 1-1/8”D) with 1/8”thick plywood bottom. It is stained with General Finishes Black Gel Stain and finished with three coats of Zinsser SealCoat. The foam ring-holding insert is folded over and glued then covered with Rockler’s adhesive velvet sheets. It is affixed to the case back with brass screws. The bracelet holders were purchased from Amazon. I cut of the base and shortened the stem. A 1-5/8” stainless steel screw affixes it to the case back. The case is made from 13/16”-thick mahogany and measures 65”H x 21”W x 4-1/2”T. The corners are dovetailed (in the wrong direction…’live and learn’) and the 1/2” mahogany plywood back-panel is screwed into its rabbeted back. The inner mirror (12” x 12”) has mitered corners and is also made from mahogany. The purpose of it is so my wife doesn’t have to close the door each time when selecting a necklace or earrings. It has proved to be a good idea. The shelves are all glued into stopped dados and the center shelf provides structural strength to hold the case sides in place. The space at the bottom is purposely left open. I will add a feature there in the future once the need arrises. It could be tilt-out bins (think potato bins), drawers or something else. The mahogany door is mortice and tenoned using Freud 99-761 Ogee Rail & Stile Bits and 54-760 Glass Panel Door Cutter. I used these bits to create 2” tenon and chopped the mortice by hand. The mirrors are 1/4” thick and very heavy so I though a 2”+ tenon was warranted. The door attaches to the case using Rockler’s 15in-lb torsion hinges. I bought a heavier set first but they were extremely stiff. I can’t see ever needing more than 15in-lbs for most woodworking projects. The 45 necklace holders are 1-3/4” Shaker Pegs from Lee Valley. They finished with General Finishes Java Gel Stain and three coats of Deft Satin spray Lacquer. Their tenons are glued into mortices on mahogany strips (18”L x 1”W x 1/”T). The six strip affix to the frame to hold the 1/4” mahogany plywood mirror backer in place with brass screws. The legs are also made from mahogany but they were from a different tree and much lighter than the feet and case (also true of the mirror and earring holders). They were stained with General Finishes CandleLite Gel Stain. The legs have double draw-bore (white oak dowels) tenons into the feet. The legs attach to the case using Lee Valley’s Chavel Bolts. All the corners where eased using a plane and sanded to 180 grit. The project was finished with three coats of SealCoat shellac and three applications of Minwax pastewax using 0000 steel wool. This project was a pleasure to work on and gives an extra sense of accomplishment knowing it was my design. This is my first large project without outside plans. I hope it inspires others to venture outside the box and develop your design skill.
Pine bookcase with hand sawn dados, beaded and tongue and grooved panels, #48 plane and 3/8 beading plane were used.
Faux fireplace with a flatscreen 32″ TV and DVD player.
Arts and crafts adjustable floor lamp
Dog bowl holder for my mastiff made from maple butcherblock counter top found in the trash
The 1st attempt at any of Paul Sellers projects and my first real foray into any real wood working with hand tools, Sapele, Oak and ebony was used.
Mahogany frame with walnut panels.
These are the my first “3 Joints” along with the tools I used to make them. I used construction grade 2×4 scraps. This was my practice for building Paul’s workbench. They may not be furniture grade but they are utilitarian enough for a workbench.
Small bench. Height of a chair. Oak Oiled. Mortise Tenon Joint. Tempered legs. Top decorative coated plywood fixed with 4 (How do You call it? Those little pieces to screw the top to the rails?)
Made from scrap wood. Used a piece of spruce for the back and a piece of fir for the arms of the hanger. Impregnated with linseed oil and coated with 3 layers of clear water based lacquer. Board thickness 20 mm.
Restoring a No5 Plane Made in England
Based loosely on the Sofa Table design but changed to be the right height for sitting on to do up your shoes. Pine with a shellac finish.
Pine. Oil, shellac, wax.
Rolling Kitchen Cart made from Maple Butcher Block
I found a router plane blade by Ulmia in my used hardware store. Because the blade is 5.6mm thick X14mm wide I cut and filed a groove to fit the blade and captured the blade with an electric guitar cover plate. To tighten the blade I have a brass screw and thumbscrew. I want to cut the screw and peen it over the thumbscrew. Any suggestions out there on how to do this? I used 2 pieces of scrap wood for the body. Ash and cherry. I have found ash to be difficult to work with because it splinters easily.
Barrister Bookcase. This is the prototype I built using pine. The bespoke piece will be made using quarter-sawn oak and will be five units tall rather than two. My lady is pleased since she gets to keep this one.
My version of Paul’s shaker stool made from clear pine
A market stick with oak head and shank made from a broom handle stained with van dyke crystals.
Walnut Vanity for Master Barber; modified from the sofa table project; all hand-planed including the half-lap shelf boards which sit into a rabbit and are secured with handcut (not by myself) copper nails.
Organizer/Charging Station in Poplar
Australian Blackwood with 19mm x 3mm steel bar and leather pads
Baltic birch plywood; double sided tape; 3/4″x1/4″ strips (easier to nail than mortis in); working up courage to sharpen freehand.
Made in pine, this cupboard was a challenge because it was offset and needed to accommodate wall power sockets behind one side
This is the clear pine face frame and doors I made for a customer to fit on a built in TV cabinet
My first spoon using hand tools. I love it, so many more to come!
A small Lantern with a steam bent handle. It is not glued but is held together by pins on the top and bottom.
This is my first attempt at building the Rebate Plane. I have a fence to attach and I think I am going to refine the wedge.
Based on the same, made of Sapele, Door Panels are Zebrawood, 5 inside drawers with Blind Dovetails. Cabinet is made with handcut dovetails.
A classic-modern adirondack chair. Built with Red Oak. Stainless steel fasteners (Torch screws and Carriage bolts). Finished with Pure Tung Oil.
Unable to match Paul’s skill in squaring up edges, I built a jointer-length plane (18 inches) out of Padauk and a Hock plane blade, then attached a white oak fence using screw knobs and brass screw inserts. After building this, I got rid of my Delta benchtop jointer. It turns out this is easier to use than the machine and more consistent. It has been indispensable; I use it constantly.
Key cupboard. Mahogany door – chip carved rose – door finished with shellac.
Structural pine bench seat, legs made from scrap merbau deck wood.
My wife wanted a sewing table and I decided to make it using hand tools only. Paul’s lessons made this possible. It is made with alder, stained golden oak, and finished with shellac.
Wood used is roasted (“torrified”) maple. Bottom: marking knife. Center: square awl. Right: compass plane. Left: router plane. The sole is made from 18mm polycarbonate, and the cutter is an offset screwdriver, retained with a set screw. Roasted maple is sufficiently hard that it can be tapped and will retain machine screws.
Chisel restoration; Beech handles with copper ferrules on the chisels and cherry with copper ferrule on the marking / scribing knife. Matthew Chapman..
Reclaimed wood and resin LED lamp. Made from reclaimed pallet wood. I suspect the wood is spotted gum.
Pine dovetailed box with a birch ply base. Top with the “tongues” cut into it is Scottish cherry. If you have a look online you can hear a professional one being played at a German company called Schlawerk. My sound is not as wonderful as theirs but it’s not bad and will hopefully please a young granddaughter. The whole tuning thing is tricky!
Shed frame “4×2” CLS lumber clad on the inside with 12mm ply to brace it. Rafter and exterior cladding are larch. Veranda roof supported on 6x6ins posts with a 6x9ins. Beam all green oak to help support the green roof. Roofing timber and all the green roof material weighed in about about 2 tonne. Door and window recycled from our cottage. Shed completed September 2015 with the green roof garden added in spring 2016. It was a wonderful project to do.
New fence gate. Thanks Paul for inspiring me. All Mortise and tenon with a rebate for the slats. All hand tools. First mortise and tenon I ever chopped. Please keep making videos. You inspire us all. Thanks Again. On to the bookcase!
Made from recycled beech plane body and O1 tool steel iron. The iron was home hardened and tempered which turn out to be much easier to do than I first thought it would be.
Made from Pine and Maple Plywood
Not having a Bench plane I became encouraged to purchase and recondition one. Reconditioned Bench plane Stanley #4, Type 19
I purchased this tool chest about 30 years ago at an auction for a few dollars. I believe it is about 100-125 years old. I was going to fix it up but somehow never got around to it. After watching Paul’s videos I thought restoring the tool box would be a good way to practice some of the things I had learned. The lid was missing, the bottom was rotten, the long sliding drawers were broken, the lock was missing, and the small drawers that slide inside the long drawers were missing. I believe the chest is poplar with the drawers being walnut. It’s very clever the way they designed those drawers to slide back and forth to get the most use of the space. I used walnut for the bottom and the drawers; poplar for the lid. Watching Paul’s Masterclass videos on the Joiner’s tool chest taught me how to make the lid and install a new lock. Watching his other videos showed me how to take rough stock and make it flat and square with hand tools, and how to cut dovetails. I also learned how to restore a Stanley #4 plane and how to actually use it. I now rarely use my table saw. Thanks Paul for sharing your skills.
Thank you very much for all the knowledge and inspiration. I guess I used Eastern European pine.
Nominal 340 square from Parana pine with dovetailed drawer front and mahogany trim. Removable tray under glass top.
This is my first, somewhat more complex project and I made it for my home. The idea was to make a letterbox that will receive A4 format letters and smaller packages. As it is installed in the fence the opening for insertion of mail is located in the front and the door at the back is used for picking up the mail. The wood used is a fir, treated with impregnation coating and three layers of wood-stain resistant to UV light spectrum. The inscription and the picture were printed on the waxed paper and transferred to the wood before the staining. The letter box was made by hand tools only. If anyone is interested in more details (joints, transfer of the printed letters and image, pictures…) or the performance of the letter box, please, feel free to ask and I’ll be glad to answer the questions. The transfer of the letters gave some troubles, but eventually it played out really well.
Meat mallet with ash head and oak handle
Nightstands made out of pine I made for my parents
The primary design of this chest is based from Paul’s Joiners Toolbox project. However, the lid came from Paul’s Tool Chest Project and the houndstooth dovetail in the skirt came from the trestle table project. I made this chest out of white oak and finished in in amber shellac. It was a fun build and my wife enjoys using it.
Made out of pine
Shop grade birch plywood because I have a lot of scrap. Fine and extra fine is all I can afford for now.
oak body and pine handle and knob all from scaps I had laying in the shop
Made out of red oak
Made out of pine
Red Oak. Shellac and wax. Stones found while beachcombing.
Eastern Red Cedar. Through wedged tenons on legs and stretcher. Carved natural edge. Butterfly keys stabilize cracks on each leg.
Burger flipper, pie server, and mixing spatula made from oak.
Made out of Ash and Walnut
Windfall beech. Olive oil. My first finished spoon. Great fun, made and given with love.
Made from offcuts: iroko, beech, birch, oak, mahogany, ash and bought wheels.
Sidecar cot, made with walnut and ash using only hand tools in an 8’x6′ shed. My first ever piece of furniture.
Drawer detail from sidecar cot, made with walnut and ash using only hand tools in an 8’x6′ shed. My first ever piece of furniture.