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Thank you Dieter, the blade suggestion sounds good, but I’ll limit myself at curving and hardening the edge. I’m way early in my practice to start thinking beyond smoothers.
As for your “simplified plane definition,” you’re more than right. The difference between brands and makers is repeatability, material quality, etc. It seems like Bailey got to an ideal design and 100s after him tried but couldn’t improve it.
Well, this is an old post, but something here tickled my fancy.
My take on what Kevin referred to on the original post, “Open Source Woodworking” IS what Paul Sellers does. By openly teaching the technique, plus sharing the step by step process to building a bench/chest/chair, he is saying “here’s the source of this chair, if you follow these 58 steps, you can make your own.”
The content licensing and wherever the thread went to after the first post, are secondary to the concept of making useful stuff and sharing it to enable others to learn and build on. That’s the spirit of Open Source. Copyright is a separate, ugly, restrictive, outdated beast.
Hi, thank you for your answers.
I’m just getting my feet wet in woodworking, and my purchases never exceed 4 boards and 6 2×4, too small a cargo to justify a flatbed, and too big for my Honda Fit.
Of course I’ve watched Paul’s stock preparation videos, but I worry that you end up removing far too much material, almost negating the advantage of buying dimensioned lumber (yes, depending on how disastrous the state of the pieces).
If you experienced woodworkers say “it works that way, you have to buy oversized and find your piece by removing all that extra stuff”, maybe I’ll buy a table saw or an electric planer to deal with the worst parts and hand plane from there to smoothness.
I was hoping to find some magical tip, around the lines of “get the concave side wet and park your car on the wood overnight” to get the occasional bad piece from fugly to somewhat workable.
Have a great weekend and happy woodworking to all 🙂
Andres
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