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I’m trying to determine the best leg sizing for a 40” W x 78” L x 30” H table (in cherry). Top and aprons would be 1” stock. Aprons about 3 1/4” +/-. Legs would be tapered (shaker style). Anyone know a good way to determine the best leg sizing at apron and then at bottom or the taper?
Yes. The etching was somewhat clear. I used some Brass Darkening Solution (4% Selenious Acid) that supposedly “raises” the etching. It worked better on some other saw etchings that it did on this one. Not quite sure why. Perhaps a marginal improvement in this case.
Finally finished refurbishing this saw. Thanks to all of you who originally followed up with advice.
Top photo is”Before”, bottom is “After”. The plate was cut down a couple of inches so the saw nut holes could be aligned with the handle template and eliminating the old holes. The handle is Madrona (my favorite wood) blowdown from my backyard some years ago. The handle template is from Blackburn, as are the saw nuts. I recut the teeth and filed it 10 ppi rip, “just because”. That filing has proved the most versatile for me. I like his stuff.
All and all a very interesting and satisfying experience, and one I’ll do again with any saw I want to improve and use.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.Thanks to you both for the great ideas and resources. I’ve started on a handle mock up in cheap wood, and will move to the good stuff shortly. The plan is to use storm blow-down Madrona, my favorite wood, from the backyard.
It might take a while, but will post photos of the final product (assuming its presentable) when finished.
Great ideas. Thanks very much.
Do you also have suggestions on making sure the saw nut holes line up perfectly with a new handle? I’m assuming that’s easier than drilling new holes in the plate, but maybe not? Also, what’s the best way to cut the right indent and curvature in the handle to set the plate? That seems tricky too. Or are the tolerances somewhat forgiving.
Thanks, Larry. Great information. Attached are some pics as requested: a) as found, b) the etch, and c) the mystery mark on the reverse side of the plate. The plate cleaned up pretty well with some mineral spirits and 800 grit wet/dry paper, then a medium and fine rust eraser. There was actually hardly any rust, and zero pitting. Only two teeth were broken off, so it will sharpen up ok, although it cuts as is. The handle is the part that needs work. It has almost no finish left and the broken horn.
Any thoughts on how to scale a template? The hand hole is giant (3 1/2″ top to bottom) and my hand slops around big time, unless I dig out my old ski gloves (not). Also, I don’t particularly like the handle design. Probably too much to try and convert to a more “traditional” Disston-style handle. I’m not fixated on restoring to a totally authentic state. It only cost $10 and the objective is getting it back to a working state for my use, not for resale. (Tell me this is an incredibly rare find and I might change my mind).
Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.I’ve used both the Thorex-type and the joiners mallet (acutally made two of these). For chisel work, the joiner’s mallet is much prefered. The beauty of these is you can tailor them to your prefered weight and balance. As dean beacker said here earlier, they are easy to make – a lot easier than one might think at first – but the skill-building and satisfaction is on the high end of the scale.
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