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16 May 2017 at 8:36 pm #312012
Steve you may have a dud. Contact Lee Valley, they are usually really good about exchanges/refunds. i have had the lee valley Narex chisels for about a year now, and after sharpening 3 or 4 times real well i haven’t had a soft edge since.
13 May 2017 at 12:07 am #311951It has to do with the cryogenic process used to harden the steel, it will take a couple sharpening’s before they stop doing that, then they stay sharp for a real long time. Lie Nielsens expensive chisel set does the same thing for the same reason, but usually after the 2nd or 3rd sharpening they stay nice and sharp
20 April 2017 at 9:55 pm #311338Look at pauls instructional video on making a 3 legged stool. he goes through the process of turning a square board into a round seat
27 January 2017 at 12:08 am #308744I think it is the Years living in high seismic zone, but I cringe every time I see unreinforced masonry
27 January 2017 at 12:05 am #308743Feel your pain had the same problem with mine. I persevered and did it by hand just took a ton of time. I made the mistake with the first glue up of not taking the rounded edges off first before glue up. It is a lot easier for whatever reason to jack plane the rounded corners off one board at a time then doing it when the top is fully glued up. I also ended up with 2.5″ top what are the odds of that
25 January 2017 at 1:16 am #308674I think I will start with practicing dovetail’s I learned the first two joints building the bench but have never attempted a dovetail joint. so I think after making the dovetail template I will start with some dove tail boxes with the left over cut offs from the bench build
(Good one with the “bench dog” had to go back and look at the picture, didn’t even see her ha!)
18 July 2016 at 10:02 pm #138574I used a permanent general purpose high strength Spray Adhesive for my pads, left them clamped tight overnight and haven’t had a problem yet. I am able to get a tremendous amount of clamping force out of these after the retrofit and my pads haven’t moved even a little bit. Just word of caution make sure it doesnt run onto the face of the pads or when it is curing you basically glue the jaws closed. I ruined one clamp this way. Nothing i did could get the clamp to reopen short of sawing the pads off
13 July 2016 at 12:27 am #138478buy soundproofing tiles and attach them to the ceiling and the walls. Soundproof the walls not the bench. Had a similar problem with working in my garage. Kept waking the kids since i get to work only in the late evenings. these are the ones i purchased (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AB8JOV6?psc=1)
and i attached them to the walls and the ceiling boards with a spray adhesive. cost total around $1500 but the kids no longer wake up and the neighbors stopped complaining when i spin the table saw up at 11pm. might be less if your space is smaller then my 3 car garage. you may be able to use a light stick adhesive so that if/when you decide to move the tiles can be readily removed without much damage to the underlying wall or the tile. they are basically foam and fairly light weight.
23 March 2016 at 2:42 pm #135879Ed,
I went back last night and gave it another go and as it would turn out that is exactly what my issue was started paying more attention to lifting the plane off the work on the pull back stroke and my clogging issues went away. Also I am seeing that my plane blade is getting severely chewed up likely from the glue lines which is probably why i am not getting a good cut.Thank you all for your wisdom. very appreciated.
22 March 2016 at 2:58 pm #135841Thank You Raze, hadn’t considered that and if the poor laminations in localized spots don’t matter to much I will leave them be. Maybe you are someone else can help me with advice on a second issue I am finding very challenging.
Now that I have the tops glued up I have started the process of planning the underside. My tops are both about 8′ long currently before cutting the ends and 12″ wide made from cheap home depot mystery white wood studs (stamped pine on them whatever that means considering the number of pine species that exist)
I am using a number 5 jack plane to level them and this is where I am running into problems. I have sharpened my plane iron following Paul’s guidance and they are razor sharp, shave the hair off my arm or pass through paper like hot butter sharp. yet my plane keeps getting clogged up. no matter how I set the mouth wide open or narrow or setting my cut to shallow or deep it clogs after a few shavings. This is the first challenge I am stumped on how to fix.
Additionally after 4 hours of work on the first top I cannot for the life of me get the thing flat. when I planed the face of the 2X4’s after a few minutes I would easily get a full width shaving but now that I am working the top I cannot get the full width shaving and I seem to be creating a hollow in the center. Any advice would be appreciated here as I am starting to get frustrated after 4 hours of effort I still have a badly out of flat top.
19 November 2015 at 10:18 pm #132558In the Mathias video he is testing the glue not the joint, that is why his gapped joint was stronger. His failure mode was the same every time meaning he was only stressing the glue and relying on the wood strength not at all. The gapped joint acted as a plastic hinge which allowed him to put more force in as the joint went plastic past the yield point of the glue. All His other tests failed at the approximate yield strength of the glue he was using. His test is flawed and should be taken with a grain of salt. The Fine woodworking tests are much better and more accurate.
- This reply was modified 8 years, 5 months ago by Ken Johnston.
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