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The long glue joint is probably doing most of your heavy lifting there, but a half lap would help keep the end seams together i think. Thats probably what i would do. I wouldnt scarf it unless you have lots of material or have trouble with neat half laps.
You should stagger the front and back end joints though (the ends of that 39 measurement). Where they line up, the middle board is going to take most of the load right there.
I found denatured alcohol at a local concrete place – https://hardrockdevelopments.com/product/denatured-alcohol-1-gallon/
Apparently they use it for marbling or something when they do decorative countertops. The guy had no clue what I was talking about when I told him I needed it for wood finishing.
The MSDS on the one I bought has it as 95% ethanol, 5% methanol. It was like $45 for a gallon or so if I remember correctly – so not super cheap.
For John Buckley and dude: it’s your life and your risk tolerance. I will copy in a section of the MSDS for the Chemfax Methyl Hydrate however:
Hazard Statement
Highly flammable liquid and vapour. Toxic if swallowed. Toxic if it comes in contact with skin. Toxic if inhaled. Causes serious eye damage. Causes damage to organs (kidney, liver, eyes, and central nervous system) via inhalation, ingestion, and adsorption through skin.I’ll take the risk on a 5% concentration a little easier than a 100% concentration – your mileage may vary. As I first said, be careful what you believe, even from me – go look yourself.
Be very careful what you believe on the internet – not all denaturing is the same.
I’ve always interpreted denatured alcohol to be mostly ethanol with percentage of added methanol to make it poisonous.
The Barrettine referenced by Richard is ethanol with propanol and ethyl methyl keytone (check the MSDS sheets). This stuff is denatured with propanol and EMK rather than methanol.For anyone else here in Canada – methyl hydrate (which is on a lot of shelves) is 100% methanol (generally). Methanol is toxic enough that I looked harder to find something with a low % of denaturing methanol.
Functionally these will probably all act about the same (I’m no expert), but it’s your health – so be aware of the risks of the chemicals you’re using, or *think* that you’re using.
This thread is a bit old, but if you mean dovetails that make a corner that isnt 90°, but are still square to the edge, it’s easier than you’d think. In the videos linked, I would call those square to the face, so the corner being made is still 90°.
To make a corner that isn’t 90°, just cut the ends as if you were making a butt joint at whatever angle you’re doing (both sides), then layout the dovetails as usual.
It won’t work if you leave either end square cut, even if you angle the shoulder, at least it didn’t for me.
I just did a table that had a shallow outside wrap around apron type thing with 6x 120° corners. The dovetails were easy enough (the assembly was not).
I need to make some small display stands – I may steal your idea (at least what I think you mean).what’s up with that spam?
anyway – if you just want to see it, there is a picture on Paul’s blog:
https://paulsellers.com/2012/09/worldwide-with-a-new-legacy-for-all/Thanks Peter – I’m sure that I put too much on the first coat (saw the video after starting), but it’s curing fine so far. Go Riders!
Matt – I roughed out all of the curved rails, but completed one door first, then the second door and cabinet were built to match. I couldn’t figure out how to get the cabinet to match the width with the curve, so built the doors and taped them together to get the width of the cabinet. I wanted to do ‘planted’ doors, but wasn’t confident that I could match up the carcass to the back of the door, so ended up with sort of half-planted doors – which hides any mismatch between door and cabinet a bit, so it works I think.
I’ve got three coats on so far, the end-grain comes out dark and looks pretty nice I think.
D.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.Thanks Matt, as not-so-unusual, the SO changed my plans for me. She likes the wood plain on this one, so no paint. I’m going to try Tried and True Varnish Oil and hope it cures hard enough. I wish I had known that I wasn’t going to paint it, I might have picked stock without great big knots for the door, and matched my panels better, and worried a bit more about the other little (and not so little) surface flaws, and on and on – ah well. No in-progress photos, just near the end result. My workflow is so haphazard that in-progress would be too embarrassing :).
ehisey – the curve is kind of an illusion, only the rails have a curve. The stiles and panels are flat and straight (at least as flat and straight as I can do). That’s why the middle one is so thin (3/4″) and set slightly back from the rail (maybe 1mm), it messed up the “curve” if it was wider. I basically 4-squared a thicker piece for the rail, laid out the curve (from a template) and tenons on top then saw/chisel/spokeshave. I left the rails over-thickness by about 1/8-3/16″ so I could shave them down to match the stiles after it was glued up. The stiles being straight let me use a plane for the grooves, but the rail grooves I had to do with a chisel. Bevel the outside of the door rails to match the cabinet (not quite finished in the pictures – looks better now) and there you go. I’m sure someone smarter than me (or with a bandsaw) could come up with an easier way.
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