Whatever leather is chosen for a strop, it needs to have a degree of hardness to resist compression, otherwise the result is a sharpened edge that becomes dubbed over at the final stage, losing any crispness from the stone.
What hasn’t been mentioned is a relatively new alternative as a final stage in sharpening that works very well – MDF.. awf…[Read more]
Check the edges of the router base-plate; hard corners can sometimes bruise softer woods.
It used to be normal for users to lightly file the edges of the bases of new planes and the like – shouldn’t be necessary with Veritas, given what they cost but worth looking at.
A wooden sole is often worth considering, too. It burnisher the surfaces as…[Read more]
That curved spoke-shave is specifically a Travisher, used in the main by chair-makers, along with a combination of an adze, gouges, compound-compass panes etc. to cut out the saddle shape on Windsor Chair seats. They are a bit awkward to sharpen and there’s a definite knack in using it………..
Possibly Brookes Brothers were the makers, though…[Read more]
I omitted to mention that the Arts and Crafts movement (and Mission Style) used wrought metal work to great effect; iron hinges with wrought staples, copper and bronze.
It depends on the visual quality of the hammer-work on the heads of your nails whether you feel confident using them as an addition to your work……..
Wrought nails were a feature in 16th / 17th century British joinery. Much of it in those days was in Oak as opposed to pine, but it was very effective as a lot of it is still with us after 300 years.
One problem with using iron in contact with Oak is that there will likely be a reaction with the tannic acids in Oak, but that should not happen with…[Read more]
As a solution to expensive hand-wrought nails it’s in keeping with its vernacular style.
On a practical level, pegs and wedges like that anchoring boards to a solid rail at the back will prevent unwanted warping of those boards over the seasons.
Some vernacular dovetailed furniture was made with wedges as an alternative to fixing with nails or…[Read more]
Wood stability is dependent on internal stresses caused in the main by changes of humidity – usually resulting in movement.
That design is basically a picture frame with legs attached. It should not be a problem.
In wood you cannot eliminate movement entirely through its finished life – it will always respond to changes in humidity – though you…[Read more]
By all means arrange the boards so that any rising grain is all facing the same way; however, what I infer from your question is the fact that some of the boards may ‘cup’ or warp as they acclimatise. This will certainly happen if you change the board’s environment – nothing to be done about this other than let it happen, let it all reach equilib…[Read more]
I saw that article – an extract, I believe from a new book.
It certainly makes sense on the face of it, after all, you are intentionally bending part of the tenon along the grain to insert a wedge and lock the joint.
However, if the neck of the tenon (next to the shoulder) is a tight fit in the throat of the mortise it stands to reason that it…[Read more]
As I said, the nearest Paul Sellers appears to come to it is the use of a stopped groove in his latest project, which will convert to a stopped rebate if you remove one side.
….. you may care to put us all out of our misery/curiosity and expand on the project.
What needs a stopped rebate?
Something with glass in it?
They don’t appear often and I don’t know any specific videos in the wild except that it is an aspect (with the near edge missing) of the stopped groove or plough which Paul Sellers demonstrates in the most recent episode of his Baby-Cot build, posted on the member’s site last week. You may consider watching that and adapting the method to your…[Read more]
I believe that it is the side fence from a Pemuvar P 44 plough plane.
Here’s a set of pictures from a seller’s web site that shows the unusual short front end, the side pocket intended to accommodate the protrusion of wider blades and the embossed diamond pattern on the…[Read more]
This note by Matthew Bickford may show the rudiments of making a rule joint with a pair of hollow and rounds:
In this case he uses a pair of number 8s, yielding a 1/2 inch radius on the joint. (No: 8 is 8 x sixteenths, or a half inch radius). Though you can…[Read more]
I’m not sure that he does.
Although it may not appear so, this is probably one of the most difficult mating joints to do well for its full length – the width of a table top -where it does not bind as the hinges move and is fully crumb-proof and without gaps. Many current makers chicken out of hand made rule joints on a drop-leaf because it can…[Read more]
If you consider it, a saw’s set on its teeth is intended to provide clearance for its plate. Therefore using the saw blade itself to cut its own slot will result in a loose fit; not what you want at all.
There’s no short cut to this:
Either measure the plate thickness with a micrometer and select another saw where its set equals the original saw…[Read more]
A Joyner replied to the topic Veritas Chisels – 1/4 and 3/8 chisels honed differently than larger sizes in the forum Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration 3 months, 2 weeks ago
Dunno. It’s probably something to explain an anomaly in their machining process.
Or perhaps someone…. somewhere….. sometime…..has decided that exact bevels are the way to success…
Frankly, the chisels need to be honed at the angle that suits you and your work, not someone else’s idea of orthodoxy.
If you like micro-bevels, then put on…[Read more]
Well, without any means of fastening the piece to the bench top you’ll have your work cut out.
At the very least, you need a means of:
1 – Holding the piece to the bench without anything interfering with the top surface which you need to plane
2 – Stopping it twisting as you plane at a diagonal or at right angles (essential to…[Read more]
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