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7 December 2023 at 4:59 pm #821458
Thank you Sven-Olof Jansson, That is what I was worried about that with time the wear and tear from the holdfasts and dogs would be too much on the softer wood and cause failure with it.
30 November 2023 at 1:06 pm #820644I appreciate the insight on holdfasts not working if the top is to thick. Its something I didn’t actually think to to consider.
29 November 2023 at 3:20 pm #820535Darren, Have you had any issue with holdfasts or bench dogs elongating or chipping out the holes with repeated use? That is my major concern with it really. Thank you
13 November 2022 at 1:28 am #780063[postquote quote=780031]
I am glad that they work for you, Not exactly positive on what the handles are called but I tried the D-shaped, pistol grip and straight handle on the Veritas. Now I am not sure if it is because of how they cut? pull vs push, was it just the handle to begin with.
12 November 2022 at 3:25 am #779991[postquote quote=779922]
I appreciate and thank you for you advise and reply. While a flat surface is not exactly needed 100% of the time it is a nice addition to have when building. I Have watched Paul plane projects all in his vise and not even on the table.
I do not want to start or kick a hornet’s nest with this comment, but I don’t think its a wise choice to just look at one builder as the only way to build a project. The way one does something may not exactly work well for you like the way another builder does the same thing. It is a good thing to keep a open mind and see how others approach it.
For example If I just went with Paul’s method of cutting with western style saws id have abandoned using hand tools quickly. I have tried out western style hand saws and they do not jive with me for some reason I never feel comfortable and relaxed using them. Japanese style saws, they just feel like a extension to my arm.
Now his how to make a dovetail cutting template for beginners, that worked so incredibly well I couldn’t believe it. That was the most valuable 2hr video I have ever watched. That was how I actually found out about Paul Sellers I wanted to learn to do dovetails. Also how I realized western saws aren’t so great for me personally.
10 November 2022 at 10:14 pm #779871I very much thank the both of you for your very thoughtful and well thought out responses. It has been a very great and enlightening read. I can assure you, your words are not falling on deaf ears. No worries Ed I see no disrespect in any of your words. I am a apprentice of life always willing to hear new idea’s and ways to do things.
I was not discouraged nor dis-satisfied by the results I received yesterday. I knew right from the get-go that this was going to be a learning experience and was not going to receive “perfect” results right from the start. I totally understand why you mention not to look at this like a machinist, that would be futile. Wood is a living object it moves and changes.
I have noticed while watching Paul’s videos he makes one face “true” and uses that as his reference point. Now by true that can mean what ever he deems necessary and needed for that said project. What is “true” for project A can be totally different from project B and vise versa.
As far as a work bench to plane on, as of right now I have just a bench I inherited. While sturdy not exactly flat at the moment so I make do as like Ed and use MDF to have a flat surface. I am planning on over the winter to make a top for it.
Again I want to thank you for your very helpful and knowledgeable advise it has been a great help to me.
John10 November 2022 at 1:53 am #779778[postquote quote=779773]
Ill take a picture of it tomorrow I am not even sure if you can see it. All I did was did the 5 points of contact method did 20 on the both the left and right 10 on the inner left and right and then 5 in the center. I only did that on the5K, 8K and12K, stones. I could see streaks on the stone’s but enough to actually do any thing I am not sure.
10 November 2022 at 12:13 am #779769[postquote quote=779766]
Well that puts me at ease. I thought I may have done something wrong. The shavings break off about 12-15″? they don’t go full length of the board and they seem to tapper at the beginning and ends, Is that normal? I put a slight chamfer one the blade and can’t feel streaks/ tracks where I ran the plane so I think it is correct. That is why i tried to show the board to the best I could so you could see what it left after planning.
9 November 2022 at 10:25 pm #779761I apologize not trying to spam the site but it did not want to cooperate and let me post it all in one post for some reason. Kept saying it was a duplicate.
Well I am not positive if I have it set up correctly the shavings taper at the ends. Also was not trying to flatten the board just wanted to see what kind of shavings I could make. all the shavings aside from the first two-three came out like the one in the video.
9 November 2022 at 5:31 pm #779715[postquote quote=779677]
What I mean about a true scrub plane, Is a modified #4 with a roughing/scrub blade. Who knows in the future once I have a set a 4,5,6 or 7, router, shoulder and a plow I might get a true scrub.
As far as a edge digging into the Shapton stones. Yes it can happen if your mind wonders and lose track of what your doing. Me I love sharping my steel items, I get lost in the moment while doing it. Almost like I am becoming one with the steel getting sharper more refined. Am I a master at sharping? no, I actually don’t believe there is a master in any thing as we are always learning. Once you stop learning you become complacent.
9 November 2022 at 5:25 am #779641[postquote quote=779620]
I appreciate your reply it is very informative and very helpful thank you.
A true scrub plane will be in my future I am sure, for now the scrub/roughing blade and extra chip breaker to keep those together, I got will suffice for now. A #5 with a extra 55° frog and Low angle jack was my original game plan. Might still get the 55° frog time will tell . Game plan is #4, #5, router, shoulder and plow
I have watched a few different videos on how to do a chamfer on a blade I like Matt Estlea version. Do 5 points of contact do 30 strokes on both the left and right 20 on the inner left and right and 10 in the center then 5 straight back. It seems to work for him so ill give it a go. I get why you would want it so the corners don’t dig in and leave streaks/tracks.
As for as type of wood I will be getting will probably be a mix of some dimensioned and rough cut.
As for as other style of planes, I know just by looking at it I wouldn’t care for Veritas norris style adjustment. That just looks like a nightmare having your depth and skew all on the same lever. I could be wrong but to me it would seem a hassle to deal with. I Would love to try a Japanese wooden plane as I love their knives, saws and chisels. Their saws just feel like a extension to my arm, I know Paul isn’t fond of them as 99% of the ones we get here in NA are the disposable blade style not the ones you can re-sharpen. The Chisels I like well I think its because of the steel that I love about them (Shirogami – #1, # 2 and Aogami – super, #1 and #2 steel) pure joy to deal with gets razor sharp very quick. I know the Japanese use those type of steel in their planes and if you want to go extremely top of the line can get Tamahagane the steel they make their swords out of.
As far as rust prevention I had my Paul Seller’s rag in a can made before I even received the plane. It is just like fire arms the salt and sweat will cause rust on the barrel of a rifle, Even the humidity in the air can cause steel to rust if not careful so all my chisels and knifes(I only have carbon steel knives no stainless can’t stand the dull things) get wiped with pure Camellia Oil. I know Paul and Rex Krueger use 3-1 oil on their planes. I might be new to hand planes but I am far from new to the world of carbon steel items, Pots, pans, knives, guns, chisels. I am just a sucker for all things carbon steel I guess lol.
Sharping I don’t have a Tormek or any other dedicated sharping machine I do however have a full set of shapton Kuromaku ceramic stones 120-30K plus glass diamond lapping plate to keep the stones flat and clean. I am going to try free hand at first, Like you said to do the ruler trick I watched Jonathan Katz-Moses on how to do it. I Have heard the Veritas honing guide is the best on the market at the moment at least all the people on Youtube prefer it over the L-N one. part of me says it would be a good choice to get but then I look at my chisels and they are square or at least square to my Starrett square so I am kind of on the fence about it at the moment. all of them say as long as you are within 1-3° each time you sharpen you will be fine it doesn’t have to be a exact science.
Again I very much thank you for your thought out and helpful response it is greatly appreciated.
John M. Carey 2nd -
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