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8 February 2022 at 6:34 pm #747932
Hello, I dress the side of new chisels. Primarily just enough to take the sharp edge off to prevent the cuts on my hand when paring. At the same time I don’t see any impairment when mortising. Not sure if there is any other reason to or not to dress the edges.
1 October 2020 at 12:33 pm #680414Hi Larry, Thank You. I knew there had to be something somewhere and looked for quite awhile. So these links are are helpful indeed. Best Regards, John
9 August 2017 at 5:46 pm #314440LOL….your funny. This piece of furniture will cost me more than buying it out right. It has been fun all the way. No mistakes are a high priority of mine hence finally reaching out for help. I knew the spirit of Paul Sellers lives through his students. Thank you again.
9 August 2017 at 11:58 am #314438Hi Diego & Edmond,
Thank you both for the great ideas. Some of them I have floated in my head but not nearly as refined as you have described…or at least needed to hear it from others.
@Diego, the batten idea could be the trick to really bring all of these ideas together for me. If I am getting this right With the battens across the bottom joining the front and back providing the vertical support of the box and someone sitting on it. Tenons would then hold the front and back frames to the box for support against any lateral forces.If I am missing something do let me know.
Just a great collaboration of ideas. Oh, my wife will thank you too when I get this bench completed.
Will post the finished product when done.
Cheers to you both,
John
8 August 2017 at 3:51 pm #314424Hi Deigo,
Thank you, very interesting idea. I do like your suggestions, even the lag bolt one. It’s actually one that I have thought about. The lag bolt is really my last option just because it goes against the original intent of no medal. This project has a design flaw for a glued up project. The original design assembled using screws. At this point I am looking to what can be a sound way to salvage this project. The suggestion about loose tenons is appealing but there are a few questions I have keeping in mind the “long grain” requirement:
1: how deep should the tenons be for the horizontal joints? and how thick? The box (part B) is 3/4 inch thick in the walls, seat, and bottom.
2: is there a suggested width of the tenons? How many would you suggest?FYI: The material used is White Oak.
Thank you,
John
8 August 2017 at 3:10 pm #314422Hi Edmond,
Thank you for your reply. The gaps appear even with modest clamping pressure. Interesting idea about the dowels. Haven’t thought of that approach and may add an interesting design feature. Would you assemble the three pieces first with glue and then drill the holes for the dowels? What spacing for dowels would you use? I was going to use dowels for the purpose of alignment of the pieces (4 corners)With regard to design changes I am chalking this one up to lessons learned and would do it differently with more of the front to back better integrated than a butt joint. I like the idea of a sliding dove tail but that would be another day after getting my first dove tail box built. Dove tailing is actually my current skill building goal with material purchased special for this.
Again, thank you for the insights.
John -
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