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16 July 2021 at 6:16 pm #721271
And here is the link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JeMctCP1zfQMsF6Y8
Managed to add the link to original post, but seems like I can’t delete this post.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 9 months ago by Jukka Huuskonen. Reason: just commenting
17 October 2020 at 9:01 am #682575Yes, like Larry said this is a blade from a wooden hand plane.
I bought a bunch of stuff from a Finnish net auction. Was a quite cheap set of planes. That blade was the worst shape of the bunch
Got three bench planes, a dovetail plane and a (aguess) a veneering hammer.
One off the planes was quite worn out, but I think it’s still in working condition, maybe as a scraping plane of nothing else. The rest of them were in real great shape.
Paid 80€ for the set. I think it was quite cheap. Not sure what wife thinks…
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You must be logged in to view attached files.10 October 2020 at 10:09 am #681651Hi, here is how the blade looks like after a night in vinegar, applying some steel wool soap pads, oiling with camellia oil and then sharpening the blade. And I did reapply the oil after sharpening.
I haven’t started with the chip breaker yet. I’ll need to get more steel wool and a wire brush.
I am just having problems with reaching the edge of the blade after lowest grit diamond plate. The last 1-2 mm from the edge on both sides seemed to be hard to smooth down. The blade does look quite nice now with the makers mark and all 🙂
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You must be logged in to view attached files.6 October 2020 at 7:30 pm #681155Ah, language barrier proved too strong here. Sure, we do have citric acid usually at home. We use it to clean washing machine and dishwasher.
Any advice on ratio of acid and water?
6 October 2020 at 6:46 am #681101Thanks guys,
I don’t much like playing with chemicals if possible, because I’m living in a quite small apartment and don’t have a dedicated workshop. So a guess I’ll have to go shopping for the wire brush (yes, I don’t have one…).
All I had was steel wool soap pads. I tried them and they did take most of the rust out. I Wiped the blade clean, dried thoroughly and oiled it with camellia oil to prevent re-rusting. Maker marker does show quite nicely now.
I don’t need them to be shiny and bright, I just want them to be clean and usable 🙂-Jukka
5 October 2020 at 9:14 am #680931Thanks Larry,
If I understood correctly, snipe plane has a kind of convex blade? This has straight blade profile, so I think it is a dovetail plane.
And now that I googled veneer hammer, I believe you are right. It sure looks like home made veneer hammer.
4 October 2020 at 4:38 pm #680822And forum ate second part once again…
Here is the second tool, seems to be done kind of scraper. Very thick blade maybe over 10mm. Blade looks home made though.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.29 September 2020 at 8:03 pm #680067Oh, just to clear up my last statement:
Rob considers scots pine soft wood in regard to this bevel angle question.
I didn’t ask about other use cases.28 September 2020 at 3:26 pm #679945[postquote quote=679743]
Asked from Rob about that scots pine, and he said he does consider it a soft wood.
-jukka
26 September 2020 at 11:27 pm #679753[postquote quote=679743]
Yes, you are right about this pine. I’m very new to woodworking and I thought all pines are similarly soft wood. Especially as these are probably from modern fast growing farmed forests.
I didn’t realize that other pines would be considerably softer, especially as in Finland this is pretty much the only type of pine available.
-jukka26 September 2020 at 9:41 pm #679736[postquote quote=679729]
Oh, and found the pic of the first dovetail attempt. The length of the tail wasn’t a mistake, I just didn’t care about it at that time.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hFZSGRoKVNt8Xc5e8But you should see how badly crushed that endgrain inside the joint is…
Well, that’s why I started this thread 🙂
26 September 2020 at 8:01 pm #679719Oh and that workbench has my first ever dovetails in it. Ok, nearly first. I did make 2 for practice before those.
I’m pretty happy how those turned out.
-jukka26 September 2020 at 7:57 pm #679717[postquote quote=679677]
Oh man, forum ate my message again… I’ll re-type main parts:
Low angle block plane has 12 degree bed angle, add 25-30 degrees for primary bevel and 2-5 degrees for secondary bevel and you end up at nearly same angle as normal bench plane or maybe even higher angle.
Block plane advantages are as I see them:
1. Small, fits in pocket and easier to use one handed
2. Fits in smaller places
3. Sharpening second iron with high angle could help with tougher grainsWhen working on workbench, even a miniature like mine (https://photos.app.goo.gl/kJ5W5KZ4L1kkvvZa7), I don’t see much use for a block plane unless it has the blade that is as wide as the plane body. Note a low angle number 4 or 5 would be nice 🙂
I do have one a small Japanese plane that could be considered a block plane or small smoother plane, but it’s quality isn’t too great and so far I haven’t managed to get good quality shavings with it, but it works fine for chamfering edges, but usually it’s easier to do that with my axminster number 4.And I do think I’ll need some practise on sharpening…
-jukka
Ps. Let’s see if this forum accepts my post this time….
26 September 2020 at 3:10 pm #679678[postquote quote=679673]
Thanks for the compliments!
I am able to cut arm hairs with them, but the edge is definetly not razor sharp. It takes a certain effort to shave them. Have to work on sharpening, sharpened only 2 plane blades, 2 chisels, 2 scissors and my Stanley (Paul type) pocket marking knife so far with that new sharpening station. Each one has gotten an edge, probably not best possible one, but already as good as I’ve had before.
26 September 2020 at 12:52 pm #679667I don’t have a block plane. I don’t think I need one. The angle difference with block plane and regular one is so small, that it shouldn’t matter.
I’ve had problems with sharpening, but I just finished my new sharpening station:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kJ5W5KZ4L1kkvvZa7
That should help things. I am trying to learn the free hand sharpening which already gave me better edge than what I was able to do before getting that sharpening station ready, even when using my cheap honing guide.I’m using Narex chisels, so I don’t think the quality of steel is in question. They should be quite good. I just have to practise sharpening.
-jukka
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