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29 May 2015 at 2:59 pm #127381
First off, I agree with the comments on the use of a scraper. I reach for my card scraper when I can’t control tear-out using just my plane. I’ve never been disappointed.
A couple of thoughts on the pitch and types of planes you’re using. First off, unless you’ve ground/honed a higher than usual bevel on the blade of your low angle plane, I wouldn’t expect it to perform well in the situation you describe (at least that’s my personal experience using planes similar – and maybe even identical – to yours). I assume your low-angle blade has a bevel angle between 25-30 degrees. That puts the cutting angle of the plane between 37 and 42 degrees (bevel angle + bedding angle). In my experience, tear-out is worse at those angles. You might, however, be able to improve your results by honing a steeper micro-bevel on your low angle blade. For example, if you honed a 40 degree micro bevel on that blade, you’d get a plane with a cutting angle of 52 degrees (12 degree bedding angle of the low angle plane + 40 (micro) bevel of the blade). That’s between York (50) and Middle (55) pitch. With thin shavings and a finely set mouth, that has the potential to give you very good results. Note that you could also achieve the same cutting angle by honing a 10 degree back-bevel (a bevel on the FLAT side) on the iron of your standard angle 4 1/2. That would give you the equivalent of a middle pitch plane (45 degree bedding angle + 10 back bevel). If you do that, be sure to adjust the frog so that it fully supports the iron (NO gap between the iron and the bed of the frog) AND set your chip breaker further AWAY from the cutting edge of the blade than you normally would. In my experience 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch should do it. You need to do that so that the chip breaker isn’t resting on the back bevel you honed and doesn’t block the shavings coming off the wood at a higher than usual angle.
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