Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
27 July 2022 at 9:52 am #768507
Hi Ed,
Many thanks for your continued perseverance – much appreciated! Maybe it’s something to do with links to external sites (especially if they’re selling something)?
Done a quick search and found the trailer on YouTube – there are a few pointers in that and it’s less than 2 minutes – 4 and a half hours should cover everything you’d ever need to know!! Looks like a great watch (although maybe a bit specialist to be topping the Netflix charts ;)) If I manage to sort this one out I might well pick it up (and find out what I should’ve done first time round!).Thanks again for taking the time to pass this information on – if there are still any missing posts with more thoughts hope they turn up eventually!
Carl
26 July 2022 at 10:10 am #768385Hi Ed,
Saw this last message but nothing else – hope you can get it to work and thanks for persevering.Looking forward to more feedback, and apologies for not thanking you last time for the tip about waxing the sole – nothing as specialised as ‘canning wax’ here in the UK, but I do have a big lump from an old candle that I use (both appear to be paraffin wax from what I can work out).
Thanks again,
Carl
25 July 2022 at 7:49 pm #768329Thanks again for all the feedback – much appreciated!
Ed : I take your point about the tape moving, so trimmed it first and then marked the blade with a sharpie – then I removed the tape altogether and worked to the black line on the photo. I have a small hand cranked grinder (I’m sure I’ve seen Paul use one in one of his videos) which I used for the straights, and a Dremel type multi tool which I used for the curved sections then finished off with an oilstone and progressively fine grades of wet and dry paper wrapped round a thin dowel. Seemed to work OK but I think I was a little over cautious and will need another session before it’s usable – if the lead cutter is adjusted to make a clean pass, the curve is still not clearing the sole 100% – now looks like I’ve used a blunt penknife rather than my teeth, so progress of sorts 😉
YrHenSaer: Thanks for the tip about the book. If I manage to crack this one I’ll put it on my Christmas list – plenty of other Lost Art Press books too as well as tons of other stuff on the Classic hand Tools site :). I’ve attached some more photos of the spring lines following on from your previous comments. It seems to me that’s possibly another area causing the plane to misbehave, as you can see, the corresponding registration faces are far from 90 degrees to each other and even though the corner sits nicely, there’s still a lot of sideways play unlike most of the other moulding planes I’ve used. I was wondering about trying to true this face up and adding an infill piece to get it back to where it should be, but I’m not sure I’m up to that level yet (or if it would work).
After reading your comments about roughing out first I tried cutting two rebates along a practice piece and roughing out the curve with a block plane before starting – seems like it might be the way to go but until I’ve got the blade profile right it’s hard to tell.
Thanks again to you both for all the advice and taking the time to share your knowledge – I’ll be taking a break from this for a few days while fitting a fireplace (before getting back to the window!!) once I’m back in the shed I’ll let you know how I get on!
Carl
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.23 July 2022 at 11:02 pm #768119Hello again,
Many thanks to you both (YrHenSaer and Ed) for taking the time to help with this – very much appreciated!
I checked the sole and the alignment seems OK overall – certainly within tolerance for someone at my skill level (see photo). The only two areas showing signs of wear are the back of one of the pointed sections/runners (not sure of the correct technical term) which has worn down about 1-2mm – well away from the mouth and I would imagine this could be compensated for (to some degree) by keeping the front of the plane down when making a pass and the guide face/fence (again, not sure of the correct term) – next to the ‘I’ stamp on the final photo and corresponding to the vertical spring line (?) which registers correctly on the very corner but leaves room for more play than I’ve experienced on other similar planes. I’m not sure if this second problem needs to/could be corrected (and the best way to go about it if so) or if it just requires a steady hand until the rest of the cutter starts to bite, but even so I would be surprised if either of these issues would cause the dire results I’ve achieved so far – I would’ve been better off using my teeth!!
With the above in mind I turned my attention to the blade – no engineer’s blue I’m afraid so I attached some masking tape to the back of the blade and was able to draw a fairly accurate line with a sharp pencil (see photo). I intend to trim the tape to the line with a scalpel and use that as a guide when grinding. As you can see there are a couple of areas that need quite a bit of reshaping so I hope that will improve matters.
That’s as far as I’ve got so far – I’ll send more photos as I progress, any further comments or advice much appreciated.
Thanks again,
Carl
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files. -
AuthorPosts