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Let’s see if that works…. no pictures of just the bench, but it’s holding a few things up in that album!
That’s a reasonable question. Three reasons….
The first is, it’s been abused. I considered remaking the drawers that are falling apart, re-surfacing it. But it’s had chunks taken out, it’s been moved between workshops a lot of times, so like I said, it’s not too stable… I could shore it up. but at this point, it’s as much work to make it work, as it is to build a new one…..
The second is, it’s a couple of inches too low. I’m 6’2″ and I feel in my back that it needs to be a bit higher. Yes, I could accomplis this in the resurfacing… But again… It’s as much work as building a new one….
Thirdly… I’m in this to learn. There’s a lot of nice skills in the workbench project that would be good to go over.
[quote quote=313070]Nevyn
Ultimately it is all about feel and usability for you. Years ago I went to the college of the Redwoods, I have 8-9 Krenov planes that pretty much sit in a drawer. I could never get used to using them, particularly compared to my 1930’s Stanley #4. But that’s me.As for the planes you have the first 5 listed are all bench planes. The last 6 are specialty planes.
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Paul not only recommends #4 bench plane but also the use of a router plane in his essential tools. He also works with plow and rebate planes. I’d keep the #71 handy.
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Yeah, my Dad’s a joiner (as was my uncle, hence the rather awesome inheritence) so I was taught to sharpen chisels and plane irons a *long* time ago, and have a prety decent feel for the #4 which is pretty much all my Dad used too (he’s within 3 or 4 years of Paul’s age, and grew up within 20 miles of him, so he’ll have apprenticed in a very, very similar way I expect!).
As my Dad’s more of what Paul would call a “machinist” now, I’ve never really seen him use the other’s though, so I’m trying to get a feel for when’s appropriate to get them out. I guess suck it and see, combined with that vid….
Oh, and yes, the 71 sees more use than the others since I got it, it’s an amazing thing to have about, I recently made it a wooden sole like Paul uses out of some spare walnut.
Oh, and I have a #45 in a different box too, with a nice selection of cutters….. had a place with that last weekend and I think it will see more daylight soon!
He says a few times that he’s leaving it as he would for internal, or back facing bits. That for your nice looking bits you’d go over with a smoother to remove those tracks etc.
It’s like the fact that if you scale a billiard ball up to the size of the earth, the earth would be smoother…. it’s all about scale, or in our case if you mean flat, or smooth…..
That’s how I’ve always understood it too, the front section is there to protect the blade, and to give a place to apply pressure when that is needed. Sometimes it’s used to keep everything level, on end grain more than anything I think.
Also, a thing I notice Paul to does is that he starts close to the end when taking off a lot, works his way back, then does final clean up as one long sweeping motion from start-end. It’s the last sweeping motion where the flatness of the sole, and contact is [i]most[/i] important.
@kevinohara Most of my wood so far has been from Howarth Timber. That said I found a sawmill on National Trust land in the Lakes that’s I’m going to go see next time I’m up there. Their list prices are unbelievable….. 😉
Paul has mentioned a saw mill in Yorkshire he uses.
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