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1 January 2021 at 11:42 pm #692633
Do you have some pictures? I would like to see the case hardening marks and the broken edge.
Case hardening is a process where the outside is hardened, but the inside is soft. This is typically done on files, which must be very hard, but not break if dropped on the floor.
It could be that they are not properly tempered. This is done after hardening to regain some toughness in the steel.
You could attempt this on one of the blades, before you discard them. If your oven is fairly accurate, try the following:
Heat the blade in the oven for 2 hours at 200°c
Let the oven cool down to room temperature before removing it. Do this twice.
Try the blade. If it’s still too hard, raise the temperature 25°, and repeat the process.15 December 2020 at 8:41 pm #690254Flattening the top of the finished board is going to be a lot of work, unless you use a drum sander.
I got mine reasonably flat with a powered router mounted on a sled, and then started planing it. After several nights of 1-2 hour sessions, I tried a belt sander and a random orbital sander. However, the paper kept clogging, so I went back to planing
When it was reasonably flat (remember it’s a cutting board, not a surface plate), I smoothed out the planing marks with some Mirka Abranet, which resists clogging somewhat.
I then cut the handles and juice groove with the router, and sanded those as well.I’ glad you’re not planning to run it through a planer. There are many horror stories on the internet of exploding or airborne cutting boards and destroyed planers.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.11 December 2020 at 9:13 pm #689736I made one using a combination of hand tools and power tools.
Is it possible with only hand tools (and band saw)? Yes.
Without spending a month of sundays? Probably not.
You can reduce the amount of work with careful planning and preparation, but no matter what, you’re going to be planing a LOT of end grain.25 August 2020 at 9:47 pm #675525The frog casting is very thin where the lever is pinned. There is a great chance of cracking the cast iron when hammering out the old pin, and also when hammering in the replacement.
You could use the broken one with a cambered iron. That way you could simply set it by eye, and not need the adjuster.17 June 2020 at 10:47 pm #665934That looks like a laminated iron to me.
Check out the first photo in this blog by Paul: https://paulsellers.com/2015/05/laminated-stanley-plane-irons-n-more/I wouldn’t replace the iron. If it is in fact laminated, you can tell when you start wearing through the hard steel.
As for the cap iron, here is a way to test the fit to the cutting iron:
Add some colour to the cutting iron back where the cap iron will make contact. As thin as possible. I use spotting ink because I have it, but you can use permanent marker, oil paint or even lipstick (buy your own. She will appreciate it).
Fit the cap iron, back from the colured area. Tighten the screw as tight as you can and still be able to slide it forward.
Now slide it back and forth through the ink. Colour will be removed where the cap iron makes contact.I took some photos of one I’m working on. As you can see, the left side doesn’t make proper contact yet.
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You must be logged in to view attached files.25 April 2020 at 12:53 pm #658622I decided the shoulders would become too narrow if I went with the wide tenons, but I really didn’t want to make four new legs.
Luckily I had some pine shelves lying around. I’ll rip those to match the height of the rails, and glue them on. That will make them almost as thick as the legs. I’ll then chamfer the legs to match the rails.
Hopefully it will look like it was meant to be that way…24 April 2020 at 10:49 pm #658552I found a solution. The family is asleep, so I’d rather get some woodworking done than spend time on the internet, but I’ll post an update tomorrow.
Thanks for the help, guys!12 April 2020 at 12:02 am #656731Could it be that your blades aren’t really sharp? Sometimes you may get a burr, and the blade feels sharp, but as soon as it breaks off, the blade is dull again.
Edit:
I just noticed you mentioned working in ash. Is it kiln dried? I read somewhere that it could be difficult to work with hand tools, although I haven’t tried it myself.- This reply was modified 4 years ago by Nikolaj Thøgersen.
9 April 2020 at 12:40 am #656349This might be what you are looking for: https://paulsellers.com/2015/11/great-holdfasting-system/
This relies on having a vise, though.13 March 2020 at 7:30 pm #653006Regarding scaling a template:
Do you need to? You say you don’t particularly like the handle as is, so if you’re making a new one, why not find a template that fits?Anyway, here is a few options:
If you want to replicate an existing handle, you could stick it in a photocopier/Xerox machine. That would give you a black silhouette of the handle. The machine can make scaled copies of it as well.
If you are making a new handle from a template file (pdf, dxf, dwg etc) you can either scale the image before you print it, or the printer will be able to do it.If you want the outer dimensions to remain the same, but with a smaller centre hole, print one at 100% and one at 90% (or whatever fits), and lay them on top of each other.
14 February 2020 at 5:26 pm #6490502.7kg, according to https://www.finetools.com.au/products/luban-no6-hand-plane
27 January 2020 at 3:50 pm #646664I don’t think it’s ever going to work properly with a flat spot like that. I would return it, if possible.
If not, try to find a couple of ball bearings with the right inner and outer diameter. I did that to mine to keep it from rocking.13 January 2020 at 3:55 pm #644537How about windshield wiper fluid? I’ve read about people using that.
4 December 2019 at 6:21 pm #633402Thanks for the replies.
I think I will just file it straight, and see if the results are satisfying.
The teeth look quite good, except for the toothline being concave, so I don’t think they need to be recut. I’ll probably wait for a saw in worse condition before attempting that.As for the nib, a guy named Tony Zaffuto posted this brilliant theory on sawmillcreek.org:
“Personally, I know for a fact it was placed on the saw, to give a back scratching point to the saw, since many users had been using the tooth side of the blade and causing open wounds, hence creating the rounded nib. Romans were the first and in their infinite wisdom, did not know how hard users would scratch, and to give a path for blood to flow away from their togas, also put the ogee. When it was learned that the nibs were mostly bloodless, the ogee soon fell out of use, and through the middle ages, many craftsmen argued why some old saws had ogees and why the ogee disappeared.”
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