Part of the issue may be the blade guides. Here is a good video on setting up your saw.
Band Saw Clinic
You generally don’t need a huge amount of tension on the blade. I generally use Viking blades. With these blades they recommend tightening until any blade flutter just disappears.
I look at every error as a learning experience. My skills won’t improve unless I make mistakes.
I will also put a project aside for a while if I’m getting frustrated. I’ll work on something that builds my confidence and then come back.
I have some Henry Taylor which are fine and some P&N which are excellent. The P&N don’t come with handles so you have to turn your own. I started out with an economy set I got from Lee Valley which worked well. As long as the tools are high speed steel, you should be fine.
Ideally you should have a bowl gouge and flat and round nosed…[Read more]
I haven’t had a lot of shop time over the past couple of months due to work and such intruding. However I finally managed to finish the frames and do the mounting and matte cutting.
The first picture is the one I messed up the dimensions on. The second is the good one.
I’ve never tried it, but I don’t think it would work well. It seems to me there would be less control and it would tend to catch. Think of a poorly sharpened skew or gouge where you have multiple bevels.
Actually hollow ground on a skew works fine as you ride the heel of the bevel into the cut.
Veritas also sells a replacement scraper blade sized for the no. 80. I’m not sure of the difference from the one for the Veritas scraper but they have different catalog numbers.
I like your design changes Chuck. My plan was to ditch the plywood and use a cross brace like you did. The half lap dovetails are an excellent idea. I’m glad I haven’t started mine yet. I’ve gotten some excellent ideas from our talented members.
I second Craig’s recommendation of Richard Raffan.
I am entirely self taught as a turner. My introduction was the book and DVD “Turning Wood” by Mr. Raffan. The “Turning Bowls” book and DVD are also very good. Another good source is “Woodturning – A Foundation Course” by Keith Rowley.
The most important learning resource is practice. The b…[Read more]
I have the Narex chisels from Lee Valley, which I like very much. They replaced a set of Irwin chisels which I now use for all the things I shouldn’t use chisels for. 🙂 I got the Narex chisels off of the clearance shelf. Someone had returned them so I got a set of 7 for the price of one premium chisel.
I lust after the Veritas PMV-11…[Read more]
I’ve had a nasty cold this week. I build an arts and crafts style picture frame which my wife wanted for her parent’s wedding picture. I glued it up and was quite pleased with my self with how it turned out. Then I thought “Wait a minute, that doesn’t look right.” When cutting the vertical frame pieces, I forgot to add the width of the…[Read more]
Peter George replied to the topic What's your most unexpectedly brilliant tool and why? in the forum Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration 8 months ago
For me, it’s my Veritas small bevel up smoother. It’s the first new plane I bought and is also my most used.
Peter George replied to the topic EZE-LAP sharpening stones worn out after flattening a couple of plane irons in the forum Tools and Tool Maintenance/Restoration 8 months ago
I second what Mooncabbage says. I have Diasharp plates which I have been using for a couple of years with no issues. I use a light oil as a lapping fluid.
I have no experience of the EzeLap plates, but from online comments, they appear to be equivalent to the Diasharp plates. If cleaning the plates does not work, I would see about exchanging…[Read more]
I bought a set of Irwin bits from Amazon. They were usable after sharpening, but the fit and finish was not very good. I purchased the set I use now for The Best Things. They are a set of Stanley Jennings pattern bits, probably from the ’30s. They were in excellent condition and cost me about the same as the Irwin bits. They came in the…[Read more]
The inlay scraper is used for thicknessing the inlay material. I got mine from Lee Valley.
I cut the grooves with the plough plane 1/8th inch wide and about 3/16th inch deep.
My procedure to create the inlay material wast to start with a 2 inch x 1 inch strip, surface one wide face then rip it to rough thickness on the band saw. I then used…[Read more]
Here is my first attempt at an inlayed frame. The frame is roasted aspen and the inlay is soft maple. It’s finished with shellac and wax. I cut the grooves with the small plough plane and sized the inlay with an inlay scraper.
Over all, I like it, but next time I’ll finish with T&T varnish oil. The oil finish seems to give a better colour and…[Read more]
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