Byron

  • Hi

    I’ve had a look at the United States Dept of Labour OHS ‘Substance data sheet for occupational exposure to lead’. It seems that ingestion of lead through airbourne dust is their main concern. I would post a link to it, but it also has a list of the effects of lead poisoning that would not reduce anxiety.

    Unlike some other chemicals lead is…[Read more]

  • Hi.
    Seems like the gap is generally accepted as an issue, which I agree with.
    I would, like Larry fix to structure, like the blockwork.
    I would use a PAR timber spacer the depth of the cavity and cladding, cut out of the cladding the exact size of the spacer, fix the spacer to the blockwork with countersunk fittings. Then plane the surface flush…[Read more]

  • Hi Glenn
    I have felled trees for work, bought timber directly from the mill, and have a friend who runs a mill where he dries the timber and produces laminated and nailed products. There are also mobile mills where I used to live that pay the tree owners in a portion of raw lumber.
    Milling is dangerous heavy work, so you need the lifting…[Read more]

  • Hi Igor
    I would only file the silver if there was an issue. I would cut the groves for the inlay perfectly after the surface has been finalised. You can cut then place the hard inlay into the groove without gluing it, and cut the groves deeper if it sticks out. Only glue when everything sits perfectly. Your tooling is suited to wood so I would…[Read more]

  • Hi Jonathan
    Have you watched Paul’s saw sharpening videos. They will be helpful in settling the rip/cross cut debate. Essentially, the task that you intend to use the saw for is likely to make the decision for you.
    I dont know what the more experienced guys would say, but I would expect any saw with a 12 or 14 TPI to be used for joinery cuts, and…[Read more]

  • @ballinger

    Thats a really nice plane. I’m glad its doing so well for you. Its Full of character, with a destinctive design. Hazarding a guess (and I’m not an expert), using the intricate detailing, and the effort that was put in to repairing the cap iron as a guage. I would guess that it was an expensive plane new, good enough for somone who…[Read more]

  • Hi Curtis and Skeeball

    You are both absolutely right.

    I bought 2 sweetheart spokeshaves and a wooden spokeshave for the equivilent of 25 dollars. I bought a one with the red cap iron for about the same for a friend.

    The older spokeshaves without the red cap are fiely cast, using little metal, very good well used tools. The newer one was rough,…[Read more]

  • Hi Joris

    Breaking up old furniture seems like a lot of work to me.

    I would suggest the local builders salvage yard where you could find old doors and roofing timber. Check your local classifieds as there are often people selling old floor boards, etc. If you are working with reclaimed timber, especially from the builders yard, its usually a good…[Read more]

  • Hi Ed

    I like @alan141 s suggestion to add a riser box bellow your chest. There is no need to change now.

    I’ve read a bit about the Seaton tool chest that @etmo posted. I think its obscenely beautifully made. An artwork in itself. Its also really inflexible. Its filled with the very best and most beautiful tools. My tools alone couldn’t compete.…[Read more]

  • Byron‘s profile was updated 11 months ago

  • @katzhuu
    Hi Jukka
    I really like that you posted photos of work that was not perfect, but improving. We always see everyone’s perfect work posted proudly everywhere. Without physical classmates around, its nice to be reminded that others also have to practice to get things right.
    Good luck with your workbench.

  • Hi

    ‘Meranti’ is used generically in South Africa to refer to a few species of hardwood from Indonesia, the Philippinnes, and Malaysia. It’s the predominant hardwood available at big box stores. It generally has an interlocked grain and machines well, so it is used extensively for moulded skirtings and cheap hardwood doors.

    The colour variation…[Read more]

  • Hi Doug

    I don’t think anyone has mentioned that you will need a cross-cut sharpened hand saw NOT the rip saw that you mention for cutting plywood.

    When cutting ply you will be cutting with the grain and across the grain over the different layers (and glue). An saw with large rip pattern teeth will not do this well. Its simply not suited to the…[Read more]

  • Hi Paul

    As usual Larry’s advice on the other thread is really good, with documents and everything.

    As I understand it, glass-wool will only reduce the resonance withing the room (i.e. the time that the sound bounces around the room). I dont think it will reduce room-to-room transmission all that well as it is low mass. Also some types of…[Read more]

  • I like Ed’s sugestion of a pre-emptive screaming plunge router.

    But seriously.
    It might be useful to put your workbench feet onto rubber pads to help isolate the sound from the building structure. If the bench touches the wall move it a little bit away from it. That way the sound travels less effectively into and through the building structure.…[Read more]

  • Hi

    For dealing with humidity, Larry has a good point on the fridge bulb. Some of the guys here use car breaklights on a 12v battery. it must be a bulb that gets hot with a filament or it won’t work. Ive seen some machinists precision tools kept submerged in oil too.
    I have a carpenter’s chest with a disposable moisture absorber inside which seems…[Read more]

  • I was thinking how good these forums are for improvement. It’s important to question even the most set habits, which might just be bad habits. And the forums provide a place where knowledgeable peers can ask the questions that would never have been brought up otherwise.

  • I’ve been working on this and made a breakthrough. Vinegar is much better than citric acid! The Vinegar is working. The plane has had three baths so far, and there is still some progress to be made

  • Hi Everyone

    EckyH, I think you’re right. I’ve given it some thought though:
    1- I pull on the first stroke because I’ve always done it, and its how I was taught. Not a full stroke, but running back a bit creates an accurate notch for a good foward stroke. On a cross-cut or end-grain it draws the fibres against the body of wood and severs them,…[Read more]

  • Greg.
    I might be abit late here. I apologise in advance if this is too basic, but I don’t think anyone above has checked how you hold your saws, and hopfully youve got it right from YouTube.
    I’ll double-check anyway: Make sure that you only have your bottom three fingers and thumb wrapped around the handle. Your index finger must point foward and…[Read more]

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