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18 September 2018 at 4:34 am #551688
I think about the same from time to time—maybe I should get a table saw, jointer and planer. In the end I just don’t want to mess with that. All that dust and noise really changes my experience in the shop. From time to time I get out my circular saw (primarily for plywood projects) and compared to hand tools, that stuff is really nerve racking to me. It’s so loud. And it’s a total mess. If I had a bigger shop and more money, maybe. I hope I don’t do that though…lol. It’s just not fun for me. It almost makes me nervous while I’m working. Maybe I have anxiety…haha.
Everybody is different many people love firing that stuff up.
18 September 2018 at 4:25 am #551687Oh, one more thing. I lightened up a little on my expectations in regards to tolerances. When I built that bench, if I laid my square on the face of a board and saw a speck of light, I would just keep going. It was unnecessary (but a good learning experience). I turned a 2 x 12 into a toothpick trying flatten that sucker. Hahaha.
18 September 2018 at 4:22 am #551686I’m with you. I spent waaayyy too much time dimensioning the wood for my bench. It was my first real project except for a couple of Japanese saw horses.
Speaking of those saw horses. I was using 4×4 fir. I was using a Japanese handsaw and it took my hours to rip those things. Like you, I was like why am I doing this? This is not fun at all. Then I bought a 4.5 ppi western saw and I could literally rip the same lumber in 10-15 minutes.
I’m glad I didn’t give up. First of all the bench build is a really big project. Both in time, complexity and the size of the material. It gets way easier than that. Plus now I know a little better what I’m doing and it just goes faster. Much faster.
Plus, I use a lumber yard and have them size the wood form me. It’s never exact, but starting with a planes surface makes things way easier.
Hang in there.
15 September 2018 at 4:23 am #551518You might want to check out some of the Japanese methods. With such limited space it might provide a good solution.
Odate’s book about tools and techniques states that they traditionally didn’t use workbenches. They work off the ground and use their body (feet) to secure work. They have some other small contraptions too. To get up in the air when needed they use saw horses (trestles) with a thick slab. This style works because both planes and saws work on the pull stroke. So you can use some very simple work holding techniques.
I don’t know. I would be very tempted if I had really limited space.
FYI – I probably butchered some of my facts above about Japanese wood working. It’s just my perception after reading the book.
15 September 2018 at 4:13 am #551517I do the same. Crosscut with a knife wall (which still might need to be shot afterwords or planed in the vice if you don’t have a shooting board). The material left is just a few hairs thick. Paul does this in all his videos.
When ripping I leave the line. My kerf is in the waste. Then I plane to the needed width.
However, if I’m not sure exactly what dimensions I need and I’m rough cutting to approximate dimensions, then I always cut a little fat and a little long.
Good questions.
1 September 2018 at 10:23 pm #550817I can’t believe the drawer video didn’t come out yesterday. Come on guys, what’s the hold up! We’ve had six weeks of workbench customization projects but no drawer. I was sure this was going to be the week!
I’m kidding of course. I won’t complain about free content. I’ll keep waiting patiently.
20 July 2018 at 2:24 am #549519Texas Heritage has an article for their saw vise and he recommends doing what you are talking about (I think). If I’m understanding you correctly, it’s called a spring joint. I read that you start from the center and take progressively longer plane strokes until you take a full length stroke. I don’t think it takes many strokes (just a few). That way the center is a little hollow and this creates a lot of clamping pressure on the saw.
I think Paul talks about this concept just a little when he laminated the aprons in the bench build. Only he did it in reverse where the middle was bellied. I think when you do this while laminating you don’t need as many clamps.
FYI I have never done this. So take what I say with a grain of salt.
20 July 2018 at 12:33 am #549515Thanks Harry for a very thorough answer. I have heard others say that you should never pare the mortise, rather only the tenon should be pared to fit the mortise.
“Never” is rarely an accurate word to use it seems. Thanks again!
11 July 2018 at 10:04 pm #549281Never mind I didn’t realize these were streaming at 1080. I lowered it to 720 and it worked fine. Thanks for the tip.
11 July 2018 at 8:55 pm #549280That’s what I was thinking. However, sometimes with a free video I’ll switch over and watch it on youtube and it works fine. So maybe YouTube is streaming at a lower resolution?
4 July 2018 at 6:04 am #549122I also sharpen freehand and use a 30 degree wedge to keep track of what I’m doing from time to time. It has really been helpful and adds basically zero extra time to the process.
Actually I need to make a 25 degree wedge just to check myself at the end of the push. Just curious if I’m close to 25 degrees?
4 July 2018 at 5:59 am #549120Just took delivery of my two new S&J saws (22” 10PPI). I’m really surprised by the quality considering how cheap they are. Not that I know a lot about saws but they seem real sturdy, seemingly well shaped teeth, fits my hand well, etc. so far I’m very happy that I purchased them. I feel confident that the teeth are starting in a good place so I have an easier time learning to sharpen (hopefully).
1 July 2018 at 12:02 am #549006I practiced a little bit on some scraps and that really helped in that I had some rhythm before starting on the real thing.
What I can’t do very well is having the piece vertical in the vise like Paul does it (at least for the small pieces). I have to lay them flat.
30 June 2018 at 3:53 am #548987Hey guys thanks for all the great info. I bought two 22” 10PPI S&J panel saws. You can’t beat the price at about $40 for the pair.
I think I’m going to sell the older saws (which I might regret later).
28 June 2018 at 10:58 pm #548941I’m a little embarrassed to admit that I actually have 5 old saws (3 Disstons and 2 Atkins). I’ve been practicing sharpening on them and I’ve kind of screwed them up because the teeth were all jacked up to begin with. They also have problems that accompany older tools and I just don’t have the patience to deal with them anymore.
I’m also being obsessive.
But I like that Paul has tested them, they are new, and I like that they are shorter than my current lot.
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