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30 November 2021 at 5:22 pm #738841
Hi.
It comes in a stanley repair kit for the 78Stanley Spares Kit 14 No 78 Lever & Depth Gauge
if your in the UK the kit is around £16 — Try TOOL LINE
https://www.toollineuk.com/product.php/section//sn/SSP112713its a lot for 1 screw but if you are an Ebayer you will more than make your money back selling the other spares as not many people seem to know this kit is still made by stanley
Steve
30 July 2017 at 4:13 pm #314153I think what some need to get their heads round is the Relative nature of the term ‘Accuracy’.
AND
The Organic nature of the material.An Engineer and a Woodworker will certainly differ in their interpretation of the term.
Straight, Square stock, tight joints showing no gaps — Craftsmanship.
BUT — Wood goes about it’s own buisness Regardless of our needs.Paul is lucky enough to work in a fairly stable environment (You will see on a couple of videos him showing a ‘cupped’ board that he had only planed flat the day before). Many of us are not.
I always keep my semi-finished stock (Planed 4SQ. but left ‘Fat) in the place the piece is intended for –At least 2weeks.
I also bring in from my workshop any pieces I’m working on (Moisture level is too high in workshop)
Modern Centrally heated housed can be Very dry environments and pieces made in a more humid one can suffer as a consequence.BTW
There is software available for producing cutlists from stock — Most useful for plywood/sheet material (cutlist for example)You need to work from your cutlist — find the widest piece that you are going to make from ONE width (not glued up to width) — you are going to Have to buy this width.
For softwood (Pine, deal whatever it’s called) you can choose a width that is close to this requirement and use the extra by ripping it to other required widths.
THERE is Always ‘Waste’.
This waste is often found in other subsequent projects or small shop aids/tools — even for firewood.
It’s a mental exercise to some extent.
Enjoy the Process.29 July 2017 at 8:27 pm #314142It’s ALL here in Both the ‘Project’ and the ‘Tools and Techniques’ Videos — Paul’s Record of a true Craftsman going about his daily duty of training his apprentices (Us). Is a Peerless Repository of knowledge that has sadly been fading from our cultural ‘memory’ as the master craftsmen Quietly retired and their boxes of tools from a lifetime (at least) of use (often) picked over by – lets say ‘opportunistic entrepreneurs’ and fed into the EY BHAY machine.
I have previously asked whether some kind of introductory Page or Video could be made to give some kind of guide to members who are joining.
If you follow Paul’s Projects sequentially, He Introduces, then re-enforces each new technique as though to a ‘New’ apprentice – Also his “3 Joints” videos (Youtube or ?here) are ‘mandatory’If one simple ‘Cherry Picks’ a project then if the techniques needed for the project have already been dealt with, then obviously there will be a certain assumption on Paul’s part that you would already have had some practice in previous projects.
Some kind of ‘Suggested Projects’ which encompass all the basic techniques – Stock preparation, laying out, Joinery techniques and Finishing would be a great start for a new member (If any of the “Crew” are reading this – maybe this is being considered?)
Good luck with your project – use the Forum and the “crew” to suggest where particular techniques are covered.
11 February 2016 at 3:34 pm #134708Hi Jake,
That’s a great job you made of ‘letting-in’ the stones. Is that a piece of Walnut with it’s sapwood and heart? — the contrast is striking.BTW – If anyone reads this, jake is an accomplished Craftsman himself — You should definitely check out his Youtube channel where he demonstrates his mastery of WoodTurning techniques
(Jake, I hope you don’t mind me ‘Outing you’, but your skill at the lathe is something I certainly would aspire to)regards,
Steve H.11 February 2016 at 3:24 pm #134707Hi Ballinger,
as you probably know already, that video is part of a series shot in 1980, called ‘Hands’ – to preserve on film some of the trad crafts here in Ireland.
There are others posted on daily motion, but I’m not too sure about CopyRight.
There is a website — hands (DOT) ie
That seems to be an ‘Official’ site for selling DVD’s of the series.The LEITRIM CHAIR episode is well worth watching. It’s a rustic ‘stick’ chair made with just Axe, Saw, Spokeshave, Chisel and Froe(plus Beetle)
until about 5yrs ago I lived in Monasteraden village – where John Surlis (the Craftsman lived – he passed in 2013) — No chairs or wood craft anymore.
26 January 2016 at 8:52 pm #134221what I’ve found is that the smart Seller’s time their auctions to end on a weekend – especially Sunday evening.
Smart Buyers on the other hand should look for listings that end mid-week and better still before 5pm.
The average price is Way Higher for the weekenders — Sometimes it’s crazy, I regularly see second hand stuff (veritas-anything in particular) go for MORE than you can pay for new.
“Auction Fever” I guess.A ‘Sniping’ bid is the way to go as well – I use Gixen – (Paul mentioned once that he does) You have to give them your ebay password but I’ve never heard of a problem. For some reason these 5 second before the end bids seem to upset people 🙂 . But my aim is 1.Win 2.Pay the least amount. If I bid early, it just gets a counter bid – If you set up an auto bid for the maximum you want to pay, eventually (or Soon, depending on your budget/expectations) you will win – but you have to be realistic and pick the mid week enders.
Listings where a group of similar items is lumped together usually tend to be a bargain (Often Family will be clearing a Woodworker’s tools after he(she) has passed – sad but i know i’d be happy to see my tools go to a user — they are often listed as “Collection only” because of the hassle — I would contact and ask if it’s OK for me to organise a courier and when I explain about being a tool user people often allow it.
I’ve been caught out by an ‘amateur tool dealer’ putting one together from parts – red early Marples (Nice planes) body later Blue record frog and a Stanley blade – i learned to ask questions — is it original/missing any/wrong parts? if they are vague or shifty i just move on.
hope this helps as isn’t just another ramble ;~)
Steve20 January 2016 at 6:18 pm #134037Hi Manuel –
The problem with the spear & Jackson saws is that they are Not very Sharp when new (they are Machine manufactured and lack the hand filing necessary for true sharpness).
I may be suggesting something a bit controversial, but what you really need (For a new woodworker; Without the ability to re-saw by machine; No saw sharpening experience; Who does not want to spend hundreds of Euros for a quality hand sharpened rip saw; Who obviously has the grit and determination necessary to become a real Craftsman – But may be disheartened by a lack of progress ((By the way – I’d pick your bargains a little better next time ;-))
Is —
A non re=sharpenable Hard – Point — Disposable (There I’ve said it !!)Seriously though — for a hobby Woodworker, this saw will last you for YEARS.
ALSO, You will be able to ‘Know’ what really sharp is, for when you are sharpening your own.
Have a look at the “Irwin Jack” range starting from 12Euro for
Irwin Jack 880 Hand Saw 20″ Universal Panel Saw.
16Euro for
Irwin JACK PLUS 770 Hand Saw 22in/550mm Fast Cut – Anti-Friction – Coarse Cut.
ALSO MADE IN Switzerland!When the teeth have dulled, you can cut up the plate to make thin flexible Scrapers — So Up-Cyclable as well.
I’m not an Irwin salesman – Just a Pragmatist – This type of saw will give you a good start in your Woodworking.PS – I always think of a problem as needing two elements to solve it – Money and Time P = $$ x t
You have just experienced this equation first hand — maybe try and give your time a monetary value, so that with experience you can properly assess whether (For YOU) it is better to buy wood that is, at one extreme just felled, to at the other, perfectly planed and dimensioned.
As I said at the beginning, you obviously have the primary foundation qualities to become a Master Craftsman – Grit and Determination, The Handskill will naturally follow in time – Enjoy your learning,steve, County Cork, Ireland
22 December 2015 at 5:59 pm #133343I think the term ‘Personality Disorder’ applies to that person and therefore tread carefully.
Scott has it quite right – the Formal request is a give away — Trouble with a capital T.
Problem is in those situations another person’s unreasonableness strikes a spark to our ego — “How dare she talk to me like that etc” ends up with two hotheads or a badly thought out decision.
Tradesmen are at the mercy of social media and ‘Rate your …..” sites and a Personality Disorder can be like a dog with a bone in it’s mouth when it comes to following up on the trouble they have caused, they have to you see, since they have to justify their initial (loopy) behaviour.
Swallow the Ego(Pride) and do the fix then warn tradesmen about Her – get a bit of satisfaction from imagining someone saying “Sorry luv, can’t do it, I’ve heard about you!!”
22 December 2015 at 5:30 pm #133342Hi Antonio,
In a recent thread (1 – 2 weeks) I think for the Tool cupboard, he said that he wanted to take out a section and add another and therefore the book would be delayed until the Newyear.
Typical that he would rather take the time to do the best work possible rather than rush it out for the Pre-Christmas market17 December 2015 at 3:47 pm #133228Close enough.
James Krenov (1920 – 2009)
His site is still up-
http://jameskrenov.com/default.htm13 November 2015 at 4:57 pm #132356Dog Faeces was commonly used in Victorian tanneries (Prob. because of the protease enzymes present in it) Also Bird droppings and human urine — Pretty Stinky I imagine.
13 November 2015 at 12:16 am #132330That will work best for Corrugated Planes 😉
This will set your tools up for the day
Seriously though, not all green polishing compound is made the same. Most green compound sold is not made from Chromium Oxide. There is Blue. White. Red, Brown, Black and Green polishing compound – They are All made from Aluminium Oxide – The colour just denotes the relative ‘grit size’ – I’ve seen huge pieces of Green Compound sold on amazon by a company called Silverline for less than $8 – with no stated ingredients (Silverline’s own website states Aluminium Oxide for all it’s colours) – People leaving comments like “brings my chisels quickly to a polish — It Would since it is a very aggressive cutting compound far courser than Chromium.
Just Saying.Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.12 November 2015 at 10:51 pm #132329Kjell,
The simple answer is that you do not have the cap screw tight enough.‘Tuning’ the plane in the way described is so that the blade adjustment will work smoothly with a tighter cap screw.
I really can not see how a plane sole can be distorted by a small increase in cap screw tension.
There would be some small increase in force between the blade assembly and frog, but this would not transfer (as seen by using any Normal measurement method) to the sole of the plane.I think you are safe to adequately tighten the cap screw without having to re-flatten your sole.
Also try to think less(Worry less) about small changes to tolerance values as a woodworker (Leave your ‘Engineering Head’ in the metal shop 😉 ). I think that the ‘Government Standard’ tolerance for sole flatness is .005″ (.127mm) — the manufacturers try and keep it below .002″ You are not going to distort your sole so that you can actually see a difference in the shaving whatever you do to the Set-UP of your plane — A typical ‘working’ shaving is 005″ or more anyway so and tiny discrepancy will be lost in that anyway.
I heard Paul say to the effect that the showy thousandth of an inch shaving has no meaning to the working Craftsman – who is going to spend the time taking 62.5 passes with the plane to take off a 1/16th of an inch of wood?12 November 2015 at 5:59 pm #132317EEEEWWWWWWww!! –Brain tanned — No Brains or Dog Poo in my Leather Thanks 😉
Vegetable tanned leather from craft supplier is all that’s needed.
More importantly, onlt a light rub of compound is needed.
I use a compound sold for buffing chrome – it comes as a toothpast consistency – Autosol it’s called in UK/Ireland – works perfect -
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