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[quote quote=542148]Can you lock nuts onto the bolt and clamp them instead of clamping to the threads directly[/quote]
That did cross my mind, but I didn’t think I’d have much luck finding left-hand threaded nut with whatever thread pitch it happens to be.
This seems to suggest that this might be what I’d need.
Lots of great advice here! Thanks so much everyone. I am currently making a sharpening plate holder (I have previously just been laying them out on a piece of shelf liner). Once that’s done, and once I cut myself a couple of 25 and 30 degree reference blocks, I’ll be back at it, but this time with a few more things to think about!
Sounds like I ought to just try them all, eh?
I like what I am hearing about the #8, but the frog on mine has had the lateral adjustment broken off. Therefore, the only means of making that adjustment (that I know of) is little taps with a mallet. This works, but might mean that I will not be able to reach the desired level of precision. Again… it sounds like this is all going to come down to experimentation.
You’ve all been very insightful so far. Thanks!
T.Bird
Thanks to both of you. This clear up a lot. I like that you mentioned simplers shooting board designs, Sanford. I like Paul’s a lot, but I think I am going to start familiarizing myself with the concept by beginning with one of the very basic ones I’ve seem out there.
Please allow me to add a third question:
3) I only own three planes. A block plane, a No. 4 smoother, and a No. 8 jointer. Which would be best for shooting? I’m thinking maybe the humble block just because of the low angle? That is assuming I will primarily be trimming end-grain with this board…T.Bird
This brings up a good question. It seems like those of us using construction grade lumber are inevitably going to face tear out and other deformities. (In my case: blemishes as result of poor workmanship!) What is the generally preferred method of filling these voids? 2-part epoxy as Mikael has mentioned? Generic wood filler? Personal preference?
Tom
I too am struggling with bowed boards. I think I might admit defeat and work on finding some straighter material, but I am secretly worried that it might actually be my underdeveloped hand planing skills that are keeping the boards from drawing up tight and gap free!
Tom
Well… I finally got started on this. I planed the 8 boards I have for the top only to pull them together for a test fit and find gaps EVERYWHERE that even eight sturdy pipe clamps couldn’t close up. I blame this on too much bow in the boards and my crappy hand planing skills. I think I might be in over my head…
Sorry. I just needed a place to vent/complain out loud. Thanks for listening! Back to the drawing board!
Slightly depressed but not beaten,
TomWow! I so appreciate the wealth of knowledge that has just been dropped on me. Thanks everyone!
First off, where are you?
I’m from the midwest. Wisconsin, to be precise
At first the legs look like an odd size, but you can get there by just ripping a 4×6 lengthwise. A 4×6 is 3 1/2” x 5 1/2” which ripped will give two pieces 3 1/2” x 2 3/4” minus the saw cut … close enough.
I really like this idea, even though it sounds like it will yield legs that are about a 1/4″ small in both directions. Not a big deal, right?
One thing that confuses me is that it sounds like you are planning to glue up 2×4 for width in places like aprons where you could wider material, even 2×12. If so, why not just get the wider material, but perhaps I’ve misunderstood.
I am only stuck on the glueing up 2x4s idea, because I already have a collection of new and recycled 2x4s at my disposal, BUT it will not be enough for the whole bench, so I probably WILL end up treating myself to some wider material. You did not misunderstand. I did not explain my scenario very well.
…it was featured in the projects page.
Arthur, I found the picture of yours. Very nice!
Thanks again guys! I’ve got a lot to study, a shopping list to carefully contemplate (and save up for!), and stacks of lumber to dig through, but first… time to sharpen up some tools!
Tom
- This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by Tom Bird.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 4 months ago by Tom Bird.
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