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Congratulations on your new #4 plane. Being a designer you have a jump on many of us but you need to amass hours on your tools. I agree that building Paul’s workbench is to much to expect from a beginner. I would advise you to start designing and building saw horses and boxes. Use the simplest joinery that will do the job, no dovetails yet. Going through the design phase will help you to understand the construction phase. The skills you must learn first are measuring, marking, sharpening and patience. To that end here is a suggested project list for you.
– 2 large saw horses
– Bench top
– Attach/clamp/nail/screw/set or bolt bench top to saw horses (for bench)
– 2 short saw horses
– Small bench top
– Attach/clamp or set small bench top to small saw horses (for a ripping bench)
– Tool shelf (looks like a 5 sided box with a couple shelves in it)
– Tool tote
– Tool box
– Add doors to that shelf to make a tool cabinet
– Paul’s workbenchHere is a list of tools I recommend. The list is not comprehensive just what came to mind.
Square – A combination square with cast body and steel blade (don’t worry about brand name just test it for square)
Hammer – The Thor Paul uses or a wooden mallet you make or a Kobalt 12-oz Double Face Mallet (from Lowe’s, not as good but similar to Paul’s Thor hammer)
Saws – Stanley 20-045 (9 tpi for ripping) and 20-526 (12 tpi for crosscutting). I use Tajima pull saws every day.
Vice – 10″ handscrew clamped to the edge of a tabletop works as a vise. I have a Wilton 63144 Heavy-Duty Vise that is lovely.
Clamps – (2) Harbor Freight 36 in. Aluminum Bar Clamps, (2) 24″ F clamps, (1) 8″ – 12″ handscrew
Measuring and Marking – 16′ Tape measure, dividers, marking gauge, folding rule, number 3 pencil, carpenters pencil, drawing compass.
You already have chisels.
Sharpening – Smith’s Trihone system, Norton double sided stone, Eze-Lap Diamond StonesIt never ends. My only rule? Have fun!
3.) Throat clearance is a funny thing, I like to leave mine fairly open (2 or 3 mm) unless I am having problems then I may experiment with very small openings and super shallow depth of cut. You are always at the mercy of the wood. My wood planes have open non adjustable throats and work as well or better then my iron planes.
4.) You wont like this answer. You grind it square and it must be square to be useful. So depending on what sharpening equipment you have build a jig or do it by hand but get it square to the sole.
5.) You’re plane is not properly tuned. This is frustrating because you think it is. But watch Paul and see if your planes perform as well as his. Probably not, mine don’t. I have about 20 planes and some of them excel at one thing that others do not. That is because there is a difference from one plane to the next that I cannot detect. Fettle and practice, fettle and practice, that’s why they call it a hobby.
On one of his videos Paul pulls a plane along the edge of a piece of wood by using some kind of fat wire wrapped around the front tote. As he pulls the plane a perfect coiled shaving of wood comes out of the top. As far as I know that is impossible. I mean if I hadn’t seen Paul do it on video. -
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