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7 February 2020 at 6:00 pm #648077
As far as course stones go I have given up. I also use a coarse belt sander belt cut open and taped to a flat surface. Just like all woodworking a long stroke takes off more material and the belt allows you to take almost a 3x long stroke than a stone. The point is to get that edge back to work, so getting the primary bevel asap is good. The other stones work fine.
5 August 2019 at 1:24 pm #596331Sandpaper and a flat surface is pretty good. I bought a coarse diamond stone to get a shape quickly. I found that 60 grit paper works better and has the added benefit that you can get a longer stroke than a 8″ stone. Big difference. I think buying belt sander refills might work even better because of the long stroke. I just use a formica countertop, which is pretty flat.
The key is to get back to using the tool quickly. After all the project is the whole point not hours at the stone.
27 December 2018 at 6:59 pm #554121I think Nikolaj33 nailed the problem (initial wear-in) I was seeing where there seems to be wear in the middle compared to the edges. Remember I am lapping here which uses a large surface compared to the bevel creation I did after the lapping. Doing that the stones seemed to cut better so I think Nikolaj33 diagnosed the problem.
Sandy1man, I tried both alcohol and then water with just a little dish soap. I also cleaned the surface of the stone and the iron every 100 strokes. I think I kept it clean.
As far as my other problem (not flat enough) I am not sure what is going on. When I lap with the 200 grit I get one pattern, then I shift to the 600 and suddenly there is a different shaped area being polished, then I shift to the 1200 and yet a different “flat” is being defined. It is like chasing your tail.
I just used a machinist rule to tilt the blade up very slightly and lapped the very edge. That works for plane irons but not for chisels. I tapered and rounded a 10 foot yardarm today with no problem. Nice smooth cutting number 6 Stanley. Right through the wood and epoxy “like butter”.
22 December 2018 at 11:54 pm #554082Ok. I don’t have a laser to measure how level the DMT plastic backed stones are. I also don’t know how to measure the wear BUT I KNOW my DMT stones are worn and not flat enough to use to lap blades.
First the wear. I am trying to lap my Veritas plane blades. I start with the 220 grit, use a magic marker and watch the pattern as I lap the blade. Slowly the 220 got to the whole blade (an area about 2 + 3/8″ wide by 1″ deep). I noticed that as I moved the pattern around the stone there was a significant difference between the sound and the resistance. The middle of the stone is much quieter and easier to stroke. I tried alcohol or water with a little dish soap and the difference was the same (meaning to me that the stone was not dirty). The stone didn’t look dirty either.
Now to the flatness. I got to “flat” on the 220 grit. (Flat was defined as all polished and no trace of magic marker.) Then I went to the 600 grit. I started lapping while occasionally looking at the back. I could easily see a different pattern of polished metal than the one I just got with the 220 grit. Just for grins I went to the 1200 and a different polished spot appeared.
It is clear to me that these plastic backed stones are not up to the task of lapping.
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